|The funnels on the
model are satisfactory but can have a few things done to them
to make them look more historically accurate.
If you are going to move
the trunk vent in front of funnel No 2 aft you will also
have to move the funnel slightly aft. Do this before you
glue the funnel to the deck house. See VENTS section (Vent
21) for details.
1 (adding the vents at the bases of the funnels).
were four rectangular vents at the base of the first
three funnels, two forward and two aft. To add these
use one of the following methods:
easiest solution for these grates is to use the grates
provided in Tom's misc set.
scrap GMM or Tom's brass five post railings (you can
use the kit's but the brass railings give a better result).
Cut twelve sections of five rail railing including a
post either side.
you glue the vent in you need to do two things. First
paint these panels dark gray. Then mark out a small
rectangle (the same size as the vent) in each corner
of the funnel's gray. base with a pencil and paint these
rectangles flat black. The black square is set off against
the gray. of the railing and this creates the illusion
of a recessed depth below.
the railing panels over top of each black rectangle.
An alternative would to be to cut out the black rectangles
but this would mean more work and we found the black
paint works just as well.
2 (puttying the seams).
you have glued the two halves of the funnel's together
putty around the top seams to make them look more
3 (removing the flash between the funnel and pipes).
are not sure if every model has this problem but ours
did. The gap between the steam pipe and the funnel
was plugged solid with flash. There is no easy way
to get it out, we tried, but even with care we ended
up cracking a pipe. Our solution was to cut off all
the existing steam pipes and make new ones from pulled
sprue or microrod. Most modelers leave the flash there
but if you want to remove it (and you should) then
making new ones is faster than trying to clean up
the old ones.
Cut the sprue to the same lengths and make a flare
at one end.
4 (filling in the ladder mounts).
you have purchased the GMM kit you may want to fill
the indentations in the funnel where the ladder attach
to the funnel and make a very small hole for the supports
to glue into. We didn't bother but some modelers may
a very small amount of putty to fill each indentation
and then sand smooth being careful not to remove the
funnel plating marks.
1 & 2
you are using Tom's Modelworks ladders you will need
to relocated the holes for the ladder supports slighty
further down the funnel to ensure that the top of
the cradle rail sits under the black area.
5 (adding the handrails).
the base of funnel #4 the modeler needs to glue on
two handrails. One on each side of the funnel facing
port and to starboard. Fashion these from pulled sprue
about the diameter of 4 lb. test monofilament fishing
line and cut to a length of around 12mm each. Glue
these about 3mm up from the base of the funnel.
handrail should also be attached to the port side
of the #2 funnel with the same specifications as above.
6 (gluing the smaller piping on the funnels).
alterations to the pipes for the four funnels are
covered in the PIPES section.
suggest, however, that you glue all pipes on to the
funnels so that they are painted at the same time.
The only exception is the large pipe groups on the
aft of #3 funnel. Shape them to the right height and
angles and then glued them to #3 funnel after the
funnel's White Star Buff had been painted.
7 (adding the small platform and bracket).
platforms underneath the triple whistle assemblies
on the face of each funnel are molded onto the funnels
but they are not well defined. You can improve
the kits be the following methods:
the funnel ladders provided in Tom's Modelworks Misc
set. These have the platform and railngs built into
Making new brackets from sheet plastic or Evergreen
strips and the platforms from scrap GMM railing panels.
Ken Marschall painting on page 44 of Robert Ballard's
`Exploring The Titanic' is a tremendous help in the
positioning and construction of these catwalk platforms
and brackets. Bruce Beveridge also shared a good photo
the bracket BEFORE you add the ladders (GMM's or A/M's)
and the catwalk platform AFTER.
the new brackets are added build the catwalk platforms.
Take a spare GMM railing panels and trim them as seen
below. Cut four sections of five bar railing that
are 3 rail panels wide. Now trim off all the rails
from the outer panes except for the top rail.
a pair of tweezers or fine pliers and bend the two
single bar rails on the flanking outside panels
down and back to a 45 degree angle. These represent
the catwalk platform's support legs. Now slide the
V shaped notch over the funnel's center steam pipe
and glue into position with the CA glue.
You wil also need to add two more brackets inboard
next to the main steam pipe. These can be seen in
any photo of the funnels.
make the catwalk's railings use spare "single bar"
railing panels from GMM or Tom's Modelworks. If you
do not have any spare railings you can use the A/M
railings but you will need to remove the interior
a two panel group and then folded it to 90 degrees
in the center with tweezers. You will need to make
eight sections, 2 per funnel.
bent we glued these to the outside edges of the catwalk
from the ladder out around the corner towards the
funnel as seen in the FUNNEL diagram.
we had them all completed, they were painted the White
Star Buff to match the rest of the funnel section.
8(additional catwalk supports).
either side of the main steam pipe there was an additional
support, see any photo of the funnels or Marshall
painting. Use spare PE railing or pulled sprue. If
you are using PE railing you will have to cut a section
of horizontal rail just slightly longer than one panel
8 (preparing for the painter's lines).
you are adding the painter's lines you will need to
add the pulleys that the lines hung from BEFORE you
paint the funnels.
you look at the funnel tops as seen on several pages
inside of Tom McCluskie's `Anatomy Of The Titanic'
you will see the rigging pulleys for these painter
was a total of eleven pulleys per funnel, five down
each side and one center aft of the funnel cap. During
outfitting all of these pulleys would be in use, otherwise
only 4 pulleys had lines continually attached to them.
and glue small sheet plastic "pulleys" around the
cap of the funnel.
9 (painting the funnels).
is important to obtain the smoothest finish as possible.
Some modeler's might be fortunate to use an air brush
but most will be doing it by hand. As White Star Buff
is not a color that can be purchased right off of
the shelf the modeler can buy a close facsimile or
use the formula supplied in the Academy/Minicraft
opted for the A/M do-it-yourself mix. For those who
are reading this Tutorial who did not buy the 1/350
but may be using this for another scale or a scratchbuilt
project the formula is included in the
PAINT section. Mix enough of the White Star Buff
formula to paint the funnels, pipes, and for touchups.
Use a wider than normal brush to paint each funnel.
We used a flat brush around 10mm to 12mm wide rather
than the standard modeler's brush.
need to work quickly. First paint all the small areas
and contact points of the ladder that the large brush
will not reach. Then quickly paint the main funnel
area with the larger brush before the paint becomes
tacky the first paint application. You need to `feather'
the two applications so the blend looks natural and
no overlaying ridges are seen.
both steps within seconds of each other ensures that
the paint will blend in through an osmotic process
and leave an overall smooth finish. The finer the
hairs of the brush the more even the distribution
of color over the funnel. Coarse bristles tend to
furrow the paint or leave unevenness.
not use too much paint to invite runs and hide funnel
plating detail, or too little in that the blotchiness
is seen on the funnels when backlit by an external
light source such as a lamp or the sun. To avoid that
you may want to paint the entire inside of the funnel
the inside of the funnels black before you add the
inserts the model uses to hide its twisted thread
rigging method (which we did not use). After painting
inside of each funnel, paint the outside area flat
black making sure that you 'cut' as straight an edge
as possible where the cap meets the White Star Buff.
The black section also cuts across the pipe assembly.
this before you add the GMM (or kit) ladders and the
scratchbuilt triple whistle assembly.
dry glue the funnels to the deckhouse roofs.
the ladders, whistles, internal funnel structures
and rigging later. When applying the ladders make
sure they are painted with both flat black and White
Star Buff to match the 'cut' line on the model. Paint
the horizontal steam pipe whistle assembly black as
well. Do NOT paint the black too far or the White
Star Buff too far up.
all the rigging is added assemble the internal features
of each funnel cap and paint all parts flat black.
When dry you can simulate soot around the top of the
first three funnels by applying a second coat of flat
black mixed with a fine powder. The 4th funnel was
a dummy for ventilation so would not have acquired
the same degree of grime as the first three in Titanic's
10 (rigging the funnel's guy wires).
did not use the supplied thread to rig the funnels
we used monofilament fishing line, nor did we rig
it in the manner suggested in the model's manual.
The thread has been replaced with monofilament in
the re-released Minicraft kit.
rigged our funnels near the end of the project -AFTER-
all deckhouse railings had been added and ALL deck
detail completed. In fact the funnels were the last
thing we rigged up except for the mast rigging and
the Marconi wires. It makes working on the model a
lot easier without all those threads or tag ends of
monofilament hanging around. Deck work was easier
as well without the funnel rigging in place. When
it came time to rig the funnels we did it as follows.
the right amount of rigging per funnel and only do
one funnel at a time. Make sure you have a good length
with a large tag end to work with. Dab a pool of CA
glue on the glue block and then dip the end of a piece
of pulled sprue into it and apply it to the deck hole
provided for the base of the funnel's guy wire. Next
set one of the threads (monofilament fishing line)
into the hole and let set. This was repeated for the
remainder of that funnel's wires. When all of the
wires had set into the deck holes thread the each
funnel wire through their appropriate holes in the
cap of each funnel.
worry about the slack lines yet.
cut several small pieces of masking tape so you have
enough for each of the funnel's guy wires. Take a
wire and pull it taut. Then pull the excess wire over
the lip and and down the outside of the funnel taping
it to the base of the black area. The tape will hold
the line taut, Repeat this for each cable.
When they are all taut dab a bead of CA glue to both
the inside and outside where each cable passes through
the funnel's housing. When the CA sets the cables
shouldn't slip. Then clip off all the tag ends with
a nail clipper close to inside of the funnel. Repeat
for each funnel.
finished use a portable hair blower (or other hot
air device) over the cables to tighten them even more.
Do not get too close or have the setting on too high
or you could melt parts!
is important to do this BEFORE the painter lines are
added as they were somewhat slacker than the main
guy wires which had to be kept as tight as possible.
11 (adding the painter's lines).
were four lines per funnel (two lines on either
a pool of CA glue onto your gluing block. Now dip
the tip of the painter line into the glue and attach
it to the proper pulley for that funnel.
According to the research and information
provided by Bruce Beveridge funnels 2, 3, 4 had
the same pattern used, but funnel 1 was different
as seen in the diagram below.
Layout For Funnel Painter Lines (running forward to aft:
on an original drawing by Bruce Beveridge
all cables are secured to pulleys then measure each line
and cut it to roughly the length of the funnel's guy wires.
Take each line and then twist it around the lower half
of the guy wire using tweezers or small pliers.
you have completed this, pass a hot air blower quickly
over the assembly to tighten up the wrapping but leave
a bit of slack, but not too much. The lines should be
somewhat taut but not rigid. Secure with dabs of CA glue
to lock the wrappings in place.
all funnel rigging and painter's lines gray. If you want
to highlight painter's lines paint them black. Although
be wary as black tends to make cables look thicker than
they actually are where the gray. keeps them more to the
12 (the internal funnel assemblies).
model's caps are fine as is but we elected to doctor the
interiors for a bit more realism.
the rigging in place and the interior sections glued in,
do the following:
1, 2, 3
the funnel top plate on to each funnel cap.
add the stabilizers, these sat between the funnels' interior
structure and the outside plating. Glue six small sheet
plastic squares around each top plate.
these as follows:
If you were looking down onto the funnel and the bow of
the funnel represents 6 o'clock and the stern end of the
funnel 12 o'clock, glue a stabilizer plate at the 4, 6,
and 8 o'clock position and the next three at the 10, 12,
and 2 o'clock positions. The model's top plate grate represents
the 9 and 3 o'clock positions.
this for each of the next two funnels. Paint everything
flat black when the glue has set.
will notice that the top plate on #4 funnel is different
to the first three. This funnel was a "dummy" funnel and
was used for venting the galleys.
of the funnel plate is a small circular ring held by two
flanking support arms. This was a pipe opening. To make
it look more three dimensional drill out the ring with
a drill bit slightly smaller than the ring itself. Once
done, dryfit the cap on to the funnel and measure the
distance from the bottom side of this plate to the bottom
of the funnel.
wake a plastic insert from a ball point pen (we used BIC)
and cut a section from the ink cartridge using this measurement.
Glue this to the bottom of the funnel cap, aligning it
to the ring. This should now look like a pipe leading
down the interior of the funnel. Once the glue had set
paint the ink cartridge flat black. The cap was then dry
fit and when you are satisfied that it is seated properly
glue it to the funnel.
with funnels 1, 2, and 3 we added the 6 sheet plastic
stabilizer plates in the same locations and painted the
entire assembly flat black. The top of the funnel should
look like the photo at the bottom of page 72 in Tom McCluskie's
"Anatomy Of The Titanic".
There is an alternative version of the top
of funnel No 4 suggested by Bob Read...
"It is my feeling that the Titanic's
top of Funnel #4 looked like the later Olympic. It is
my belief that the model represents the configuration
shown of Olympic at the time of her fitting out. The more
you study the "sisters" the more you find that Olympic
"became" the Titanic after the disaster. One change that
is evident is that for the post disaster Olympic that
they vented the smokeroom flue into the funnel clear to
the top. For these reasons if I were modeling the Titanic
at this point I think the attached drawing (opposite)
would probably more accurately reflect Titanic than the
kit configuration. This is one debateable point among
Drawing by Bob Read.
13 (Funnel ladder).
There was a deflection at the bottom of
the funnel ladders.
Bend the ladder to 90 degrees verticle approx.
6mm from the bottom of the ladder.
Those using Tom's model works ladders will
find that this is quite difficult due to the tight fit
of the ladder against the steam pipe.
Thanks to Bob Read for this new find and
use of the photo opposite.
Photo of the base of the Olympic's fourth funnel.
Though we're not 100% certain but there may have been cable
clips roughly half way up the funnel. These can be seen on the
Olympic. We assumed that they were on the Titanic so we placed
them at the following points:
bow side of a funnel is 12 o'clock we have a connector at 1:30,
3:00, and 4:30 on either side of each funnel halfway up the
its full height.
on the Olympic for these clips are page 37 of Leo Marriott's
"Titanic" and page 75 of Tom McCluskie's "Anatomy Of The Titanic".
cross cut thinly pulled sprue and glue one to the locations
seen in the photos. When the glue has dried paint them with
the White Star Buff formula to match the surrounding area.