The grand staircase
was the showpiece of the Titanic and we decided that it should
be the centerpiece of our model. To do this we created a removable
skylight so we could see down into the GSC area. (See SKYLIGHT
This project requires
many hours of work but is well worth the effort as the interior
detail adds great depth to the model.
1 - MIKE & STEVE PELL'S PROCEDURE
First you must determine
how many levels of the Grand Staircase you wish to make. We
chose two, the Boat Deck, and A-deck. To make these more visible
we elected to have a removable Skylight structure so the viewer
can peek inside.
It is best to work
from the top level down. This will help with alignment problems
because of the incorrect size and shape of the A/M dome over
the Grand Staircase.
Work on the removable
skylight dome can be found in the SKYLIGHT
section. This file deals only with the A-Deck and lower interior
GSC Boat deck level & A-deck level
Step 1 (creating
Make a paper
template of the GSC stairwell using the gray area of the
Step 2 (marking
Draw a line
from port to starboard where the marking on the deck turns
inboard, forward of the GSC.
Place the template
on the Boat deck piece with the centerline of the template
along the centerline of the Officer's Quarters trough
(i.e. the centerline of the ship) and the forward line
of the template on the line you drew.
the template with a pencil.
Step 3 (cutting
out the GSC stairwell).
Now to cut
this area out. To speed things up we used a drill and
a scroll saw.
a large hole in the middle of the traced area. Then thread
the scroll saw blade through the hole and attach the blade
to the scroll saw. Using the saw to work your way around
the pencil line spinning the model boat deck around until
the whole section is removed. Unplug the scroll saw and
unhook the blade. Run a small file around the edges to
clean them up flush and straight.
Step 4 (removing
the A deck staircase).
Now add the
staircase. As the A deck staircase will not be seen you
can use this for the Boat deck staircase.
Over to the
scroll saw once again. Rig it up through the A-deck's
GSC opening and cut the stairs off.
Step 5 (preparing
the floor covering).
Cut two rectangles
of sheet plastic equal to the outer floor perimeters of
the Boat deck and A-deck GSC foyers. You can get the measurements
from the molding on the deck. See above diagram for approx.
on the deck pieces and turn the decks upside down so you
can trace the stairwell openings onto the sheet plastic.
Once these patterns were cut out paint black patterns
on the sheet to match the pattern seen in photos.
Keep the pieces
in a safe place until you need them.
Step 6 (adding
were then glued to their location on the Boat deck piece
and allowed to dry.
Step 7 (measuring
end of the GSC foyer is open and needs to be closed so
you can add details like the H&G clock, paneling,
etc. Measure the width of the foyer from the GSC entrance
molding on the deck. The height of the interior of the
GSC Boat deck foyer can be taken from parts H10 or H11
allowing for the molding on the deck (approx. 45mm x 7.5mm).
Cut a sheet
plastic wall to this size. This will separate the GSC
foyer from the officer's/Marconi deckhouses.
Step 8 (adding
takes place later in the modeling process.
Once the deckhouse
walls are glued on to the boat deck for the officer's
area and the GSC, glue this sheet plastic wall into position
using the forward walls of the GSC foyer as a guide.
one problem while creating another. This creates a slight
gap between the new sheet plastic wall and the opening
for the dome/Skylight cover. In other words you can just
see in slightly behind the wall. A small strip of sheet
plastic along the top of the wall to the front edge of
the Skylight hole solves the problem.
of using the GSC foyer's forward walls for the guide for
the sheet plastic wall is that the wall was flush to the
rear of the GSC itself which is -very- important. The
process was repeated for the aft side of the GSC foyer
as well to create a wall for the Gym, etc.
(add the floor coverings).
Glue the sheet
plastic `flooring' down to simulate the white tiles.
Step 9 (entrance
Once you have
remodeled part J29 (see the BULKHEAD
section) the two entrance foyers need to be added.
Use sheet plastic
squares, cut and fit to their locations using the diagram
above as a guide.
Use the painting
of the GSC foyer in Illustrated History along with the
photos for shape, placement and color of objects.
(forward wall detail).
Make the GSC
wall detail as follows:
Glue two sheet
plastic doors on each side of the GSC these led to the
halls through the Officer's deckhouse.
Add the Honor
and Glory Crowning Time clock. Use the painting in 'Illustrated
History' as a guide.
the pillars between the paneling glue microrod down the
walls from the ceiling to the steps.
wall panels behind the stairs cut and taper pieces of
sheet plastic and glue these between the microrod pillars.
Make the clock
by cutting a small piece of pulled sprue crosswise and
gluing it in place. This was flanked by two small bayonet
shaped wedges of sheet plastic to simulate Honor and Glory.
Once dry, everything was painted with Testor's Model Master
Wood to simulate the oak finish. The clock was painted
brass with a small white dot added for the face.
On the ceiling
of A-deck by the pillars at the foot of the stairs hung
two lamp fixtures. Use two single `milky' white glass
beads glued into this position.
(painting the stairs).
where then painted gloss white on the treads and wood
brown on their risers (they're a bit too small to add
the brass strip!).
to this diagram for the following modifications.
(adding the support pillars).
Mark the position
of the pillars on the boat deck floor using the diagram
above and drill a hole the same diameter as the microrod
you will use for the pillars.
there are two pillars at the beginning of the curve
on the boat deck that DO NOT go through to A deck.
Insert a length
of microrod through the holes until they touch the floor
For the pillar
bases use slightly larger diameter rod. Pull the microrod
up but not through the holes and glue the larger diameter
base to the floor of A-deck. DO NOT not glue the pillars
yet. Slide the pillars back down until they sit on top
of the A deck bases.
Mark one rod
to the height of the GSC's Boat Deck ceiling (approx.
7.5mm from floor to ceiling). Remove all of the microrods
and then cut to the same length as the marked one. Replace
them in their holes and DRY FIT the Boat deck roof to
make sure they were not too long or short. When satisfied,
tack the pillars in place with a small bead of glue on
the ceiling of A-deck.
Model Master brown to match the `paneling
was made by using the deck benches from the A/M model.
Theses become available if you purchase the GMM benches
for use on the decks.
To make a chair
cut the bench into thirds. To make a couch cut one third
off and use the remaining two thirds.
these red (Testor's 1103) and then glued about the foyer
to match the layout seen in the Illustrated History's
Ken Marschall painting.
were made with small pieces of sheet plastic, painted
dark brown with yellow `grills' and glued by the windows
as seen also in the Illustrated History painting. These
sat behind the first and third windows along the outer
(balcony railings & bannisters).
The upper balcony
railings on the GSC's Boat deck level were made using
the exact same process as the "bins" for the side of the
Skylight cover (see SKYLIGHT
section). Cut small sections of A/M railings to length
and glue around the staircase opening and bend the railings
to follow the curved aft side of the stairwell.
GMM steps included in the Titanic Kit will free up the
A/M steps. Use the step RAILINGS for the following two
fixes removing the bottom rail.
Add the center
bannister from the first landing down to A deck.
To add banisters
down from the Boat deck and either of the stairs bending
the rails to the shape of the stairs.
(A deck bannister posts and more railings).
Add a bannister
post at the end of each bannister on the A deck level.
Add more railing
heading forward from the outer posts to where the next
set of stairs down to B deck would be.
Add a small
plastic 'pip' to the top of each bannister post and the
tops of the curved railings to represent the ornamental
post top. See photo above for reference.
To create the
cherub, glue a larger pip to the top of the center post.
To the top of the cherub glue a small clear plastic pointed
pip to simulate the torch shaped lamp it held.
and pips were painted wood brown to match the walls.
(internal rail decoration).
All of the
railings had either a wooden carved or wrought iron panel
in them. In the center of the wrought iron panel was a
the wrought iron was too difficult to do you can add the
brass plates. Add Kristal Klear between the railings.
Then apply a tiny piece of gold/brass of metallic `glitter'
to the end of the hobby knife blade and dab it to the
center of each railing section. When dry, the KK isn't
visible but the gold/brass `plates' flash when they catch
the light, adding a touch of elegance to the GSC. The
`glitter' can be found at any craft store and most hobby
(painting windows and doors)
Trim the GSC
foyer window frames with dark brown and add Kristal Klear
to finish them off.
Also consider Bruce Beveridge's 1/350 window decal
set for this.
See the Illustrated
History for the entrance foyer color scheme.
added in some areas to animate the setting. (Maybe you'd
like to recreate the scene from Illustrated History -
it inspired a scene in the movie!)
2 - DAN CHERRY'S PROCEDURE
Interiors - the first
place to start...
There are many places
where the modeler may wish to create details within the interiors
that can be seen through the exterior's windows. Achieving a
level of detail in these rooms can add further realism and depth
to your finished model. I will share with you what I have done
and the processes incorporated to achieve this. Most of my added
detail lies on the outer decks, public rooms and A-Deck.
As is the case with
a few other modelers, my first class entrance will have a removable
dome to see down into the ship. So you don't have dead space.
I have gone into serious detail here.
Photo of Dan Cherry's GSC Boat Deck interior.
Item 1 (floor
the floors on the Boat, A, B, and C deck have the black
and white floral tile patterns on them. See Dan's diagram
Use a computer
design program draw out the pattern on a page. In a computer
design program I draw out the pattern on a page, set the
scale as small as you can reasonably go without losing
definition and increase the magnification to 400% or better
so you can see what you are doing.
drawing the master pattern copy and paste the tile into
the spacing pattern seen in any photo of the grand staircase.
Each tile was 4 mm (1/8 inch) square. I print this out
at 25% (the minimum my printer could print out) and at
600 dpi and 125 line screen for a crisp, well-defined
tile. THEN reduce the printout 50% on a copy machine to
achieve a reasonable sized pattern to cut out and glue
to each stairway foyer.
The D deck
landing had the same patterned carpet as the reception
Using a base
flat blue, then tape a different color, using green, yellow
and red, waiting until each layer dried, for this landing.
Item 2 (A
Add furniture and floor tiles to A Deck entrance.
Photo of Dan
Cherry's A Deck interior.
Item 2 (C
& D decks).
C and D decks
require scratchbuilding. I only created the visible areas
that will be seen when peering down the dome opening.
Item 3 (posts
will require brown posts, supports and furniture.
.040 rods for the posts and supports, these are a little
thin but you will be pleased with the effect. You may
opt for stretched sprue.
For the furniture
you once again, put those A/M benches to use. I included
all of the furniture indicated on the plans for the boat
deck and A Deck because there's enough windows to get
a clear look inside these foyers. On B & C deck I
added only the furniture that you can see looking down
the dome opening and some of the tables in the D deck
reception room close to the staircase edges themselves.
You can't see more than a mm or 2 beyond the landing on
D deck, and then only with the assistance of a pen light.
I painted my
furniture dark red.
Item 4 (Honor
For the A-deck
landing's Honor and Glory Crowning Time, I scaled down
a photo of this piece to 1/350 and colored brown to match
the walls. It has been suggested that the the Titanic's
H & G did not have its clock in place at the time
of the voyage but a circular mirror until the clock could
Use a dot of
silver paint to represent the mirror.
strips to the walls to simulate the carved columns.
can be made with a thicker square of plastic strip painted