The grand staircase was the showpiece of the Titanic and we decided that it should be the centerpiece of our model. To do this we created a removable skylight so we could see down into the GSC area. (See SKYLIGHT section).

This project requires many hours of work but is well worth the effort as the interior detail adds great depth to the model.

METHOD 1 - MIKE & STEVE PELL'S PROCEDURE

First you must determine how many levels of the Grand Staircase you wish to make. We chose two, the Boat Deck, and A-deck. To make these more visible we elected to have a removable Skylight structure so the viewer can peek inside.

It is best to work from the top level down. This will help with alignment problems because of the incorrect size and shape of the A/M dome over the Grand Staircase.

Work on the removable skylight dome can be found in the SKYLIGHT section. This file deals only with the A-Deck and lower interior work.

GSC Boat deck level & A-deck level

Step 1 (creating the template).

Make a paper template of the GSC stairwell using the gray area of the diagram opposite.

Step 2 (marking the deck).

Draw a line from port to starboard where the marking on the deck turns inboard, forward of the GSC.

Place the template on the Boat deck piece with the centerline of the template along the centerline of the Officer's Quarters trough (i.e. the centerline of the ship) and the forward line of the template on the line you drew.

Trace around the template with a pencil.

Step 3 (cutting out the GSC stairwell).

Now to cut this area out. To speed things up we used a drill and a scroll saw.

First drill a large hole in the middle of the traced area. Then thread the scroll saw blade through the hole and attach the blade to the scroll saw. Using the saw to work your way around the pencil line spinning the model boat deck around until the whole section is removed. Unplug the scroll saw and unhook the blade. Run a small file around the edges to clean them up flush and straight.

Step 4 (removing the A deck staircase).

Now add the staircase. As the A deck staircase will not be seen you can use this for the Boat deck staircase.

Over to the scroll saw once again. Rig it up through the A-deck's GSC opening and cut the stairs off.

Step 5 (preparing the floor covering).

Cut two rectangles of sheet plastic equal to the outer floor perimeters of the Boat deck and A-deck GSC foyers. You can get the measurements from the molding on the deck. See above diagram for approx. shape.

Place them on the deck pieces and turn the decks upside down so you can trace the stairwell openings onto the sheet plastic. Once these patterns were cut out paint black patterns on the sheet to match the pattern seen in photos.

Keep the pieces in a safe place until you need them.

Step 6 (adding the stairs).

The stairs were then glued to their location on the Boat deck piece and allowed to dry.

Step 7 (measuring the walls).

The forward end of the GSC foyer is open and needs to be closed so you can add details like the H&G clock, paneling, etc. Measure the width of the foyer from the GSC entrance molding on the deck. The height of the interior of the GSC Boat deck foyer can be taken from parts H10 or H11 allowing for the molding on the deck (approx. 45mm x 7.5mm).

Cut a sheet plastic wall to this size. This will separate the GSC foyer from the officer's/Marconi deckhouses.

Step 8 (adding the walls).

This step takes place later in the modeling process.

Once the deckhouse walls are glued on to the boat deck for the officer's area and the GSC, glue this sheet plastic wall into position using the forward walls of the GSC foyer as a guide.

This solved one problem while creating another. This creates a slight gap between the new sheet plastic wall and the opening for the dome/Skylight cover. In other words you can just see in slightly behind the wall. A small strip of sheet plastic along the top of the wall to the front edge of the Skylight hole solves the problem.

The benefit of using the GSC foyer's forward walls for the guide for the sheet plastic wall is that the wall was flush to the rear of the GSC itself which is -very- important. The process was repeated for the aft side of the GSC foyer as well to create a wall for the Gym, etc.

Step 8a (add the floor coverings).

Glue the sheet plastic `flooring' down to simulate the white tiles.

Step 9 (entrance foyers).

Once you have remodeled part J29 (see the BULKHEAD section) the two entrance foyers need to be added.

Use sheet plastic squares, cut and fit to their locations using the diagram above as a guide.

Use the painting of the GSC foyer in Illustrated History along with the photos for shape, placement and color of objects.

Step 10 (forward wall detail).

Make the GSC wall detail as follows:

Glue two sheet plastic doors on each side of the GSC these led to the halls through the Officer's deckhouse.

Add the Honor and Glory Crowning Time clock. Use the painting in 'Illustrated History' as a guide.

To simulate the pillars between the paneling glue microrod down the walls from the ceiling to the steps.

To simulate wall panels behind the stairs cut and taper pieces of sheet plastic and glue these between the microrod pillars.

Make the clock by cutting a small piece of pulled sprue crosswise and gluing it in place. This was flanked by two small bayonet shaped wedges of sheet plastic to simulate Honor and Glory. Once dry, everything was painted with Testor's Model Master Wood to simulate the oak finish. The clock was painted brass with a small white dot added for the face.

Step 11 (lamps).

On the ceiling of A-deck by the pillars at the foot of the stairs hung two lamp fixtures. Use two single `milky' white glass beads glued into this position.

Step 12 (painting the stairs).

The stairs where then painted gloss white on the treads and wood brown on their risers (they're a bit too small to add the brass strip!).

Refer to this diagram for the following modifications.

Step 13 (adding the support pillars).

Mark the position of the pillars on the boat deck floor using the diagram above and drill a hole the same diameter as the microrod you will use for the pillars.

  • Note: there are two pillars at the beginning of the curve on the boat deck that DO NOT go through to A deck.

Insert a length of microrod through the holes until they touch the floor of A-deck.

For the pillar bases use slightly larger diameter rod. Pull the microrod up but not through the holes and glue the larger diameter base to the floor of A-deck. DO NOT not glue the pillars yet. Slide the pillars back down until they sit on top of the A deck bases.

Mark one rod to the height of the GSC's Boat Deck ceiling (approx. 7.5mm from floor to ceiling). Remove all of the microrods and then cut to the same length as the marked one. Replace them in their holes and DRY FIT the Boat deck roof to make sure they were not too long or short. When satisfied, tack the pillars in place with a small bead of glue on the ceiling of A-deck.

Painted them Model Master brown to match the `paneling

Step 14 (furniture).

The furniture was made by using the deck benches from the A/M model. Theses become available if you purchase the GMM benches for use on the decks.

To make a chair cut the bench into thirds. To make a couch cut one third off and use the remaining two thirds.

We painted these red (Testor's 1103) and then glued about the foyer to match the layout seen in the Illustrated History's Ken Marschall painting.

Step 15 (space heaters).

Space heaters were made with small pieces of sheet plastic, painted dark brown with yellow `grills' and glued by the windows as seen also in the Illustrated History painting. These sat behind the first and third windows along the outer walls respectively.

Step 16 (balcony railings & bannisters).

The upper balcony railings on the GSC's Boat deck level were made using the exact same process as the "bins" for the side of the Skylight cover (see SKYLIGHT section). Cut small sections of A/M railings to length and glue around the staircase opening and bend the railings to follow the curved aft side of the stairwell.

Buying the GMM steps included in the Titanic Kit will free up the A/M steps. Use the step RAILINGS for the following two fixes removing the bottom rail.

Add the center bannister from the first landing down to A deck.

To add banisters down from the Boat deck and either of the stairs bending the rails to the shape of the stairs.

Step 17 (A deck bannister posts and more railings).

Add a bannister post at the end of each bannister on the A deck level.

Add more railing heading forward from the outer posts to where the next set of stairs down to B deck would be.

Add a small plastic 'pip' to the top of each bannister post and the tops of the curved railings to represent the ornamental post top. See photo above for reference.

To create the cherub, glue a larger pip to the top of the center post. To the top of the cherub glue a small clear plastic pointed pip to simulate the torch shaped lamp it held.

All railings and pips were painted wood brown to match the walls.

Step 18 (internal rail decoration).

All of the railings had either a wooden carved or wrought iron panel in them. In the center of the wrought iron panel was a brass design.

We thought the wrought iron was too difficult to do you can add the brass plates. Add Kristal Klear between the railings. Then apply a tiny piece of gold/brass of metallic `glitter' to the end of the hobby knife blade and dab it to the center of each railing section. When dry, the KK isn't visible but the gold/brass `plates' flash when they catch the light, adding a touch of elegance to the GSC. The `glitter' can be found at any craft store and most hobby shops.

Step 19 (painting windows and doors)

Trim the GSC foyer window frames with dark brown and add Kristal Klear to finish them off.

  • Note: Also consider Bruce Beveridge's 1/350 window decal set for this.

See the Illustrated History for the entrance foyer color scheme.

Step 20 (people).

People were added in some areas to animate the setting. (Maybe you'd like to recreate the scene from Illustrated History - it inspired a scene in the movie!)

Photos of the area on Mike & Steve's finished model.

METHOD 2 - DAN CHERRY'S PROCEDURE

Interiors - the first place to start...

There are many places where the modeler may wish to create details within the interiors that can be seen through the exterior's windows. Achieving a level of detail in these rooms can add further realism and depth to your finished model. I will share with you what I have done and the processes incorporated to achieve this. Most of my added detail lies on the outer decks, public rooms and A-Deck.

As is the case with a few other modelers, my first class entrance will have a removable dome to see down into the ship. So you don't have dead space. I have gone into serious detail here.

UPDATE.

Photo of Dan Cherry's GSC Boat Deck interior.

Item 1 (floor patterns).

First off, the floors on the Boat, A, B, and C deck have the black and white floral tile patterns on them. See Dan's diagram above.

Use a computer design program draw out the pattern on a page. In a computer design program I draw out the pattern on a page, set the scale as small as you can reasonably go without losing definition and increase the magnification to 400% or better so you can see what you are doing.

Once finished drawing the master pattern copy and paste the tile into the spacing pattern seen in any photo of the grand staircase. Each tile was 4 mm (1/8 inch) square. I print this out at 25% (the minimum my printer could print out) and at 600 dpi and 125 line screen for a crisp, well-defined tile. THEN reduce the printout 50% on a copy machine to achieve a reasonable sized pattern to cut out and glue to each stairway foyer.

The D deck landing had the same patterned carpet as the reception room.

Using a base flat blue, then tape a different color, using green, yellow and red, waiting until each layer dried, for this landing.

Item 2 (A deck). UPDATE.

Add furniture and floor tiles to A Deck entrance.

Photo of Dan Cherry's A Deck interior.

 

 

Item 2 (C & D decks).

C and D decks require scratchbuilding. I only created the visible areas that will be seen when peering down the dome opening.

Item 3 (posts & furniture).

Each landing will require brown posts, supports and furniture.

Use Evergreen .040 rods for the posts and supports, these are a little thin but you will be pleased with the effect. You may opt for stretched sprue.

For the furniture you once again, put those A/M benches to use. I included all of the furniture indicated on the plans for the boat deck and A Deck because there's enough windows to get a clear look inside these foyers. On B & C deck I added only the furniture that you can see looking down the dome opening and some of the tables in the D deck reception room close to the staircase edges themselves. You can't see more than a mm or 2 beyond the landing on D deck, and then only with the assistance of a pen light.

I painted my furniture dark red.

Item 4 (Honor & Glory).

For the A-deck landing's Honor and Glory Crowning Time, I scaled down a photo of this piece to 1/350 and colored brown to match the walls. It has been suggested that the the Titanic's H & G did not have its clock in place at the time of the voyage but a circular mirror until the clock could be installed.

Use a dot of silver paint to represent the mirror.

Attach Evergreen strips to the walls to simulate the carved columns.

Good heaters can be made with a thicker square of plastic strip painted orange-yellow.

 

 
 
This site was created by David Cotgreave January 2000