"box" sat on the starboard forward corner
of the aft Boat Deck's 2nd class entrance behind the
raised smoke room roof.
have not heard any definite conclusions as to what purpose
of this "box" shaped object served but we know for certain
that it existed. See any uncropped version of the starboard
Cork Examiner photograph.
one from plastic stock, using a section of sprue tree
sanded into a square shape. Cut this to a length of
3mm. This "box" sat on a raised base and was not flush
to the planking, so make a tiny base from a cross section
of sprue. Glue the stand to the deck in the proper location
and then glue the "box" on to the top of it. A conduit
can be seen running from the base of the "box" down
to the deck planking. Use a length of pulled sprue to
the lid/cover on top of the "box" cut a square of sheet
plastic slightly larger than the perimeter of the "box"
and glue into place. Paint the lid light gray and the
"box" and conduit flat white.
was a brown 'beading' along the edge of the roof along the
back of the Boat deck, A and B decks, the officer's deckhouse,
Gym, and bridge.
this by gluing 4lb fishing line along the Evergreen strips
roughly in the center. Paint it brown with a thin tipped brush
-dragged- along the fishing line 'beading'. You may want to
paint the line first before gluing but the glue can bother
the paint when trying to place. We found it easier to just
load the brush with minute amounts of paint and drag it along
at an even pace and pressure.
method is to cut a strip of masking tape 1mm wide with a straight
edge and sharp hobby knife. While still stuck to the table
paint it flat military brown or leather. Then pull it up from
the table and cut it to a length. It needs to be long enough
to go from the port bulkhead, across the deck, up the Officer's
Quarters walls, over the roof, then down the starboard wall,
across the deck to the starboard bulkhead.
was repeated for the aft expansion joint measuring it along
the planking from one side of the superstructure to the other.
drybrush a line down the outside edge of the superstructure
and B deck to simulate the joint, again using the brown. It
should be more pronounced on the starboard side because the
port side was dressed up for the public before launch having
faced the crowd at Southampton.
India Ink and a small ruler may also work but we have not
tried this ourselves. Another idea is to run a nail file on
its edge across the roof, walls, and planking to create a
slightly recessed line for a more 3-dimensional effect.
1 (improving the bulkhead handrail caps).
simulate the handrail caps seen along the Bridge/Wingcab bulkheads
and bulwarks down each side of the superstructure on A and
B decks, glue Evergreen sheet plastic strips onto the tops
of the bulkheads/bulwarks. Paint them brown .
this step is not really necessary we found it gave a better
overall appearance to the bulwarks.
2 (improving the deckhouse handrails).
the following guide for the hand rails...
- Boat Deck: All
rails on the Boat deck deckhouses were white.
- A Deck: All
handrails were brown on except for those around the Palm
Court. One of the best ways of doing these rails is to use
a brown waterproof fine tipped marker pen and a straight
edge like a metal ruler.
- B Deck: All
handrails were brown.
3 (Railing kickstrips).
of the railings except some on the deckhouse roofs had a kick
board at their base. This includes the railings on the forecastle
and the poop deck.
K1 Evergreen plastic strips on their side to simulate these.
The kickstrips will aid tremendously in attaching the brass
Gold Medal Models or Tom's Modelworks photoetched railings
as it gives them something to "bite" against. Paint white.
It also gives the deckhouse a nice clean edge.
and cut them to the lengths you need and apply them with model
glue. These were also applied to the bow facing poop deck/aft
well deck bulkhead (above #6 hatch) and to the forecastle/well
deck bulkhead. Make sure to leave the openings for the stairways
Both GMM and Tom's railings have this kick strip built into
the railings. It is up to the modeler if they wish to add
the K1 kick strip to assist in gluing the rails into position.
4 (No 4 Funnel deckhouse/vent safety rail).
Add a panel of safety railing between the vents and
Make this from spare panels of brass photo etched
railings and paint them white when glued into place.
If you are using Tom's misc set a good substitute
are the spare parts for the forward anchor well grate.
5 (No 1 Funnel safety rail).
There were seven
poles along each side of the No1 Funnel with a safety line
strung between them. See page 44 of Exploring The Titanic
for their location. Create these from micro rod or pulled
sprue and string 4lb test line between them.
Paint the poles
white and the line light gray.
6 (Boat Deck class divider railings).
the Boat Deck class divider rails use left over Lusitania
rails from the GMM Merchant Marine Titanic/Lusitania kit.
make a `class area divider' take a span of 6 bar railing and
cut to create a three bar railing with a gate.
the top rail where the gate will go while keeping the rest
intact. Then remove EVERY OTHER rail segment down each panel
until the bottom is reached. This will leave a bottom rail
for the gate while the other sections will have single posts.
Apply CA glue to the bottom of the gate rail and down one
outside post and glue it to a deckhouse wall and deck floor
planking. Then once secure, tack the rest down using a pin
point for gluing to keep glue marks on the deck to an absolute
When cut with the hobby knife it
should look like this:
the rails you had removed for they will be of use with the
next specialty item.
7 (Tank Room railings).
was a railing/catwalk along the top of the Tank room roof.
Pictures of the Olympic show them with the tank room covers
resting in an upright position against them.
these out of spare GMM or Tom's Modelworks "1-bar" brass photoetched
railings. If you have no 1-bar left you can use others but
make sure to trim the interior rails off leaving only the
top and bottom rail. Photos of the Titanic's show that there
were four panels down each side and one panel at either end,
totaling 10 panels. Due to the scale of the railings when
compared to the model part you can actually fit 5 panels down
the sides of the catwalk but to be historically accurate you
should only have four! If you jockey them around and be generous
with the end panel bends the four will fit and look pleasing
enough to the eye.
you bend the panels to the 1,4,1,4 configuration join the
open corners together with CA glue and then glue it to the
tank room. Paint the railing white.
to Titanic and Olympic diagrams it appears as though there
were storage boxes spread around the Boat Deck and A-Deck
a small box from plastic stock sand into a rectangular shape,
then glue it into the recessed corner of the starboard wing
cab aft bulwark.
of this box was another more trunk like box. This is thought
to have stored the falls for the lifeboats. Mirror this trunk
on the port side aft wing cab bulwark.
the corners of the A-deck forward open promenade appear to
be small boxes. These were thought to store the sounding cables
when they were not in use. As before, fashion these from plastic
stock sanded into a rectangular shape no higher than 50% of
the height of the bulwarks. Glue them all into place and painted
them with Model Master Leather to simulate a darker wood.