Step 4 (making the running lights).

To make the lamps we used colored glass beads about 1.5mm in diameter, like the ones you see in beadwork for watchbands or `friendship' pins. Use a green bead for the starboard side and a red pin for the port side.

The beads are still a bit too big so cut them in half. You will have to press down VERY HARD with the hobby knife and block both sides of the blade with some form of barricade (possibly cut inside a box) to catch the bead halves as they fly sideways. Practice this a few times as the beads can shatter, skid out or just won't cooperate. Luckily, we were able to cut them in half the first time.

Dab a spot of CA glue into the aft corners of the running light housing you just installed and then glue the appropriate bead into the appropriate frame. As the glass catches the light it shines and looks like real miniature running light lenses.

Step 5 (adding the binocular boxes).

There were binocular boxes attached to the forward bridge bulkhead where the wall swings up to the inboard edge of the wingcab.

Make these out of the small pieces of one bar rail that you trimmed off while making the running light housings in Step 3. Glue one on each side of the ship and then paint flat military brown.

Step 6 (adding the two button whistle panel).

Just by the binocular box on the starboard wingcab was a two button panel for controlling the whistles.

To add this simply paint two flat black dots on to the forward wall just inboard of the starboard binocular box.

Step 7 (adding the roof).

The model comes with a flat roof, however, it looks like there was a contoured lip on the real ship.

To simulate this first cut a 7.5mm square of sheet plastic and glue it centered to the 3 walled wingcab housing. When dry, cut a second piece of thin sheet plastic 7mm square and glue it centered to the top of the 7.5 sheet. Ensure that the recessed edge is equidistant around the perimeter. Next drill a small hole through the center of the first sheet, this will give the new semaphore lamp a stable footing.

Repeat the process for each wingcab.

Step 8 (making then adding the new semaphores).

The model's Morse lamps are featureless pips of plastic and we wanted something a bit more imaginative.

Poles:

Cut two lengths of thinly pulled sprue (the same diameter as the small holes you drilled in the step above) to lengths of 3mm each.

These were cut and glued into the holes on top of each wingcab roof.

Bases:
Cut two sliver thick disks (like a tomato!) of 1.5mm diameter pulled sprue and glue one onto the top center of each pole.

Lenses:
To make the clear lenses pull some clear sprue from the skylight tree to a diameter of around 1.25mm. When cool, cut two 1.75mm long sections.

Place a small bead of model (not CA) glue onto the bases and then use tweezers to place and center the two glass sections.

Lamp Caps:
Make two small pulled sprue flares (see WHISTLES section on creating flares). When cool trim from the sprue and glue on top of each clear lens section, again with model glue.

Step 9 (painting the wing cabs).

• Paint the wingcab housing flat white.
• Paint the inside of the running light reflective housing around the beads with:
  A) Port - Model Master 31136 Insignia Red (or equivalent)
  B) Starboard - Testors 1164 O.D. Green (or equivalent)
• Paint the bottom lip of the roof flat white.
• Paint the outside edge of the lower roof dark brown.
• Paint the upper roof (7mm square) light gray.
• Paint the pole and base of the semaphore Morse lamp white/silver.
• Paint the semaphore cap brass.
• Paint the binocular box Testors Flat Military Brown.

Step 10 (adding windows).

You can use either acetate or Kristal Klear to simulate glass in the windows. (We opted for KK).

Step 11 (adding wing cab/Bridge foot railings).

Along the base of the forward bridge bulwarks out to the wing cabs were foot railings, see page 39 of Leo Marriott's "Titanic".

Make these with sheet plastic and use the model part (J39) as a template. Lay the top rail onto the sheet plastic and trace around the curve. Repeat for the opposite side of the bridge. Now draw a parallel line freehand about 2mm away. Use small scissors to cut these out of the sheet plastic. They should match the bulwark profile exactly.

To support the foot rail make miniature sprue blocks (3mm long x 1mm high 1mm thick) and glue them flush to the base of the bulwark and deck planking. This way it wasn't relying solely on the edge of the sheet plastic for support.

Once the blocks were in place the foot rail was glued over the top, masking them from sight (within reason). Paint dark brown.

Next to simulate the stanchion that passed through the foot rail glue brass GMM cut rails onto the outer edge on an angle towards the bulwark. Paint white. To give the illusion of the stanchion passing through the footrail put a touch brown where the two touch. This will save having to drill the holes.

Place five stanchions per side evenly spaced between the wing cab and bridge bulkhead.

Step 11 (aft wing cab bulwarks).

The right angled bulkheads (parallel to the wheelhouse) had both a lifering and cable cleat on them. See page 39 of Leo Marriott's "Titanic".

Make the cleat from a small square of sheet plastic and glue it to the aft end of this small bulwark. The cables from #1 funnel/foremast guy stay will attach to each bulwark at the cleats in the rigging process.

The kit does not supply enough liferings. You can make these by cutting cross-width through a plastic ink cartridge from a ball point pen (BIC tm) creating mini plastic doughnuts. Glue the lifering on the front corner of the small bulkhead and paint flat white.