In this section we provide information for the altering and adding of decklamps around the model in the most visible areas. Some of the molded decklamp representations are located in the wrong places, while others are outright missing.


Counting from bow to stern.

  • Note: Molded as is BEFORE any modifications have been made to the bulkhead. Relocated to is AFTER any modifications have been made to the bulkhead (i.e. after new windows added or old ones filled).


Model's Molded at: Relocate To:
Portside Officer's Deckhouse between window 2 & 3 (aft of the bridge). Portside Officer's Deckhouse between window 3 & 4 (aft from the bridge)
Portside Officer's Deckhouse between window 12 & 13 (aft of the bridge).

If you have added a new fifth window and filled the original window 12 you will have to relocate the decklamps where the old window twelve was.

See WINDOWS section for notes on this.

Starboard Officer's Deckhouse between 10 & 11(aft of the bridge). Starboard Officer's Deckhouse between 10 & 11(aft of the bridge).
Starboard Officer's Deckhouse between 7 & 8 (aft of the bridge). Move closer to window 7.
Portside Grand Staircase Foyer between windows 2 & 3 (from the bow corner of the foyer) Portside Grand Staircase Foyer between windows 3 & 4 (from the bow corner of the foyer)
Starboard of tank room forward of the aft door. The door and the deck lamp need to swap positions.




Item 1 (GSC foyer port aft bulkhead lamp).

A lamp needs to be added on the aft portside bulkhead between the two arched windows. See the alterations needed for this bulkhead in the BULKHEAD segment. Do these FIRST before adding the lamp!



Item 1 (starboard side - forward).

Aft of the gym there is a small alcove created by the raised roof of the 1st class read/writing room. This alcove contains a cowl vent and bench sitting on the Boat deck. There is a set of steps leading up to the raised roof aft of the alcove. A section of railing follows the edge of the roof from the gym bulkhead, behind the cowl vent and bench and turning starboard to meet the stairs. Just before the rail turns starboard was a lamp fixed to the railing on a metal plate. This can be seen in Ken Marschall painting in Inside The Titanic.

Item 2 (starboard side - aft).

Farther aft along the raised roof of the lounge sat a large cowl vent located between the two bay windows (in the location where the modeler needs to straighten out the roof line). Another decklamp with a metal plate was attached to the railings at this location facing outboard. See Ken Marschall's painting in Inside The Titanic.

Item 3 (port - forward).

There was a decklamp attached to the railings above the Reading and Writing room's curved bay window as seen in the Odell photographs in Illustrated History.

Item 4 (port - aft).

Mirror the starboard aft decklamp from Item 2 over the portside alcove.



Item 1 (cubicle stairwell lamp).

On the portside of the 1st class sliding door stairway a decklamp needs to be added between the aft side of the door and the stern corner of this stairwell above the handrail (that needs to be added also).



Item 1 (forward wall port).

A window needs to be added here. See WINDOW section.

Add at deck lamp between the old window and the new one.

Item 2 (forward wall starboard).

Add a lamp between the starboard corner and the first window.



Item 1 (2nd class entrance overhead canopy lamps).

Under the roof of the small partition canopy over the doors on both the port and starboard sides a lamp needs to be added, sitting centered on the underside of the canopy.



Item 1 (roof lamps aft of Palm Court).

Lamps were located under the aft overhanging section of the Boat deck. These lamps can be seen in amongst the joists in two of the the three Father Browne photos of this area (eg. the one with the Spedden child playing with the spinning top & the couple braving the weather).

It is best to add these before you glue the Boat Deck and A-deck together.



Item 1 (D deck 2nd class entrance).

A lamp needs to be added forward of the door and of the aft window along both port and starboard sides (eg two lamps on each side).



Item 1 (crane lamps).

A deck lamp needs to be added to either side of the base of each crane. See CRANES section for details.

Item 2 (docking bridge).

Lamps need to be added along the underside of the docking bridge. Ken Marschall dusk or night paintings will give you an idea of where to add them. Check Illustrated History for an example. We do not know of any day time photos that show these lamps either on the Titanic or the Olympic.

Item 3 (flagstaff).

On the flagstaff you need to add a small lamp about 6mm up from the planking on the bow side.

Item 4 (stern running light).

Just behind the flagstaff in the center of the stern a deck lamp was attached to the railings which faced aft for other ships to see from a distance. See the "sea trials" photographs found in Legacy or Illustrated History.


Though the model's decklamps are a reasonable rendition of what was to be found on the real Titanic, we elected to make ours more 3 dimensional. This involved a two step approach. First was the addition of clear lenses and the second, of the reflective lamp shades where applicable. Not all decklamps had the reflective covers!


Method One- Pulled Sprue Rods

Step 1 (preparing the lamp locations).

Using a 0.65mm bit and cordless drill bore out all existing decklamp markings molded onto the model EXCEPT the ones under DECKLAMPS THAT NEED ALTERING listed above. Sand these lamps off and mark the correct locations with a pencil and then bore those holes.

Step 2 (pulling the clear sprue).

Use the same method of sprue pulling described in the MODELING TECHNIQUES section but use the CLEAR sprue from the skylight and dome tree. The result, if done properly, should be long lengths of clear sprue rod. Pull the sprue thinly enough so that the rod fits snugly into the bored holes. Not too thick or they won't fit in the holes nor so thin they fall through.

Step 3 (assembling the lamp lenses).

After the clear sprue has been pulled to the desired diameter cut them off with a NEW hobby knife blade. A dull one tends to fracture or shatter the clear sprue whereas a new one gave us a clean edge and clear lenses.

Cut the clear sprue into lengths of around 1 to 1.5mm in length. Make more than enough in case you lose a few.

Now add a dab of model glue (NOT CA!) to the bored out hole with the tip of the GluSquito then while holding the clear pulled sprue lens, pushed it into the hole about 1/3 of the way. Then with the end of a wooden toothpick push the clear lens in further so only the last 1/3 stuck out from the deckhouse wall (about 0.3mm).

Now when the light caught the clear lens you could tell something with a glass look was there.


If you are lighting your model, then rather than placing these small pips of clear sprue, substitute your fiber optic cables in these same holes and secure them in place threading the cables down to your primary light source contained within the hull. Though the fiber optic lighting of the model lays outside of the scope of this manual we invite all modelers to check out the web site of Joe Oliveira at;

to see the what-to and how-to of this immensely challenging and rewarding project.

Method 2 - Flared Lenses

If the modeler is not satisfied with the look of the ends of the glass pulled sprue pips for decklamps, you can also flare the pulled sprue tips (as described in the WHISTLES segment) to achieve the more `fish eyed' looking lens covers. Using the flared lenses is a bit more work but very eye appealing.

Using the Kits Molded Lamps

If the modeler wants to use the lamps molded on the kit it appears, from completed models that we have seen, that some modelers accent the lenses with a dot of light yellow paint.


To make our reflective decklamp shades required some slice and dice from the spare GMM railing kit, a steady hand, and plenty of patience as this is not an easy task, but well worth the effort when viewing the model from a 3/4 angle. If you are not using the GMM rails you can substitute the brass railing with Evergreen strips.

Step 1 (making the cover shades).

When you look at the hand rail panels of the spare Lusitania railings you will see that not all the rails are of equal height. The gluing rail and the hand rail are thicker. It is with the hand rail section that we made our decklamp reflective covers.

Remember again that not all the decklamps had this reflective cover, only a few.

Taking a few panels from spare GMM Lusitania railing sections we trimmed off the handrail portion along the top with a sharp hobby knife. Once done this was then trimmed into lengths of around 2.5mm each.

Step 2 (shaping the covers).

Being rather small these are not the easiest things to work with but it is possible. As that the lamp lenses were drilled using the 0.65mm drill bit, bend each brass strip over the shank of the drill bit (the section that sits inside the drill chuck). Do not press too hard or you can break the drill bit! Or you can use a nail of similar diameter.

Step 3 (gluing the shades on the deckhouses).

To place the shades on the lamps it is easier to lay the model on its side so the shade doesn't slide down the wall.

Create a small puddle of CA glue on your gluing block. Dip the end of a small pulled sprue length into the glue puddle and then apply it to the deckhouse wall just forward of the lamp lens. Do not get it on the lens or the clear pip will fog up. With the glue in place grab the brass shade with the tweezers and place it on the deckhouse wall. If it doesn't land just right use the tip of your hobby knife to move the shade so it wraps around the one half of the clear pip, like a half moon not sitting too far overhead or underneath. You want it to look like a letter 'C' around the forward side of an `O'. Work fast before the CA glue sets.

Do one side of the model before flipping the ship over to repeat the process.

Step 4 (painting the reflective shades).

When you have added all the reflective decklamp shades required, paint each one flat white to match the deckhouse walls. Be very careful not to get the white paint on the clear pip lens right next to it. Take your time.

Now when you view your model the 3 dimensional decklamps and the reflective light covers really adds a sense of realism to the model. In our opinion its worth the effort.


These were relatively simple.

Take a square of sheet plastic about 15mm x 15mm and using a common pin poke 5 small holes in it 4mm in from the edge. Next glue five small flared lenses (see Method 2 above) one per hole with a tiny bead of regular model glue. When the lenses have set use the tip of your hobby knife to trim around each fixture so the back plate is not much larger than the lens itself (approx. 2mm x 2mm).

After the five fixtures have been trimmed and separated from each other, apply CA glue to the rail area where the decklamp plate is to go. Pace the decklamp on the rail making sure it sits square between the rails. After you have completed all five lamps, conduits will need to be added to their backsides as discussed in the CONDUIT segment.


This site was created by David Cotgreave January 2000