There is a variety of pipes around the ship that can be seen in many photographs. These pipes range in various diameters and lengths and are easy to construct from sprue, microrod and the like. As with the conduits it is easiest to just move along the ship from bow to stern pointing out the more visible piping you can add to your 1/350 if you so choose.

Pipe 1 (forward well deck).

The first pipe to be added is the one seen on the port side aft of the forecastle's bulkhead. This runs from under the canopy of the forecastle forward of #2 hatch, along the bulkhead wall underneath the port stairs out to the port side hull of the well deck where it bends down to the area of the hawse hole outboard of the bollard. This is seen clearly in Olympic forecastle photos as well as the Titanic wreck footage.

Pipe 2 (pipe under A deck promenade).

Add the port pipe that ran under the over hang of the A deck promenade.

The pipe started on the B deck forward planking, rose up the forward face of the second deck support stanchion to the roof, at the roof it swung OUTBOARD to halfway between the stanchion and the outside of the overhanging superstructure (underside of A-deck outside of the B deck hull exterior). Here it bent 90 degrees and ran the entire length of the ship until it reached the open promenade area on B deck aft. Just before the first open promenade stanchion the pipe bent 90 degrees to head inboard to the B deck bulkheads.

Refer to the Browne photo looking down the side of the ship in Southampton.

Pipe 3.

Duplicate pipe 2 on the starboard side with the pipe swinging in at the aft side of the Cafe Parisien/open promenade area.

Refer to the Browne photo of Captain Smith looking down from the starboard wing cab.


Pipe 4 (A deck promenade ceiling).

If you're feeling adventuresome you can add the network of piping that ran along the roof of A-deck's open promenade.

Glue pulled sprue or micro rods to the roof using the classic photo of the Titanic officer walking aft by the port side Palm Court as a guide.

Pipe 5 (tank, aft of #1 funnel).

A small 'barrel' like object sat on the starboard aft grate behind the #1 funnel. This barrel had four pipes, two coming out of the starboard end bending down 90 degrees disappearing into the funnel grating and two from the top curling down somewhere between the barrel and the funnel, terminating somewhere in the recess. Makes out of pulled sprue or micro rod.

Pipe 6 & 7 (Smoking Room roof drain pipes).

On both the stern and bow ends of the 1st Class Smoking Room raised roof are drain pipes. These can be seen in the Cork Examiner photos. These ran from port to starboard on both ends, wrapped around the corners and then bent down to empty into the gutters running along the base of the raised roof's bulkheads. Make out of pulled sprue or micro rod.

Pipes 8 & 9 (under aft Well deck forward stairs).

Two drain pipes run under the canopy below the stairs that lead down from B deck to the aft well deck. They run from the inboard angled bulkhead to the hull sides and then bend down and run along the bulkhead near the aft well deck's forward hawse holes.

Make from pulled sprue and bend them gently with the tweezers to follow the contours of the hull.

See photo from the Olympic opposite for reference.


The pipes are generally okay on the model, however, some pipes are missing while others need relocating.

If you wish you can replace all of the "P" shaped pipes with scratchbuilt pipes made from .5mm Evergreen rod.


Funnel 1.

Two pipes need to be added to the #1 funnel.

Add a thin loop of pipe to the port aft side of the funnel similar to the pipe on the port forward side. The loop at the top must face in towards the steam pipe. You will need to fashion one from pulled sprue or microrod to look similar to part C10 for #3 funnel.

Add a small pipe to the port bow face of the funnel. This extends from the central steam pipe to the funnel base/grate area.

The Odell photo on page 42 of Illustrated History shows this pipe on the #3 funnel. This same pipe setup was also on funnel #1 and #2.

The other pipes are okay

Funnel 2.

Add a single thin loop pipe onto the starboard forward side with the loop facing in towards the center steam pipe.

Add the small pipe on the port/bow side as described in #1 funnel.



Funnel 3.

The kit instructions want you to place a thin looped pipe (C10) to the starboard forward side of this funnel. Glue this as close to the steam pipes as you can .

Add the small pipe on the port/bow side as described in #1 funnel.

Water Pipes on aft side.

The heavier pipes on the aft side of #3 funnel are much too long. In reality their tops sat no higher than halfway up the White Star Buff area. You will need to chop them down to the correct size. Take about 5mm out of their length just above where they bend to run over to the tank room. To assist with the join you may want to glue a single PE railing in the groove on the back of the pipes to give them extra strength.

The thin taller pipe on the starboard aft side has its loop facing the wrong way. The model has the Olympic version where the Titanic's faced the center steam pipe. Cut off the loop with a sharp hobby knife and then rotate 180 degrees so the loop faces in (towards port) and reattach to the pipe column. See the Cork Examiner starboard aft photo for a perfect view of what is needed.

The loops on the funnels are generally OK but pipes running on to the Tank Room roof are totally incorrect. If you look at the Cork Examiner photos you will see that the number of pipes entering the Tank Room Roof do not match the number on the model.

Port: The model has 6 and there should be 5

Starboard: The model has 3 and there should be 5

Bruce Beveridge has done extensive research on these pipes and offers the following conclusions. Click on the images for an enlargement.

Bruce also offers this explanation of how these pipes operated.

"Most, if not all of the Harland & Wolff ships, specifically the Olympic class liners, had their main water pipes fitted to the aft side of a funnel.   In the case of the Olympic class ships this would be the #3 funnel.  The large loops were mains that supplied water to the tanks in the tank room aft, flanking the reciprocating engine casing.  Fresh water and salt water was stored in the bottom cells of the hull, and pumped up to the tanks on the Boat deck.  When the level of the tanks would fall to a certain level, a pump would pull up more water, keeping the pipe loops full and the tanks filled. The reason for the pipes being where they were was to keep the water above the level of the tanks.  The tanks were located on the topmost deck because the system was gravity fed.  The fresh water would flow from the tanks, through filters, and then to the distribution areas.

The Olympic saw a difference in the configurations of the water pipes as she had one less loop or upside down "U" on the port side.  The Olympic was also launched with out an Engineer's Smoke room.  Because of this you will notice that the pipes enter the tank room roof at the very forward edge.  The Titanic's had to be mounted a farther distance aft to clear the additional Engineer's facility.

Below are my drawings of the water pipes.  The information is taken form photographs, and may astound some of you, as this is not how the water pipes have been represented in he past.  However, the pictures prove this configuration.  The only gray area is one pipe fitting at the forward port side end of the tank room.

The "P" shaped pipes are overflows."

Thanks to Bruce for both the drawings and the explanation.

I cannot offer a fix for these pipes at this time because I haven't made this modification myself. If you successfully make this modification please let me know how you did it and I will post it here.


Funnel 4.

The "P" pipe is too short and over sized, replace with a scratch built pipe. Refer to Ken Marschall's cutaway painting for a good idea of how this pipe should be represented.

#4's internal pipe is covered under the FUNNELS section.


That is all the piping we added , there may be others but we will leave it up to you to find and add them. Please let us know of any additional material and we will include it in any updates to this Tutorial.


This site was created by David Cotgreave January 2000