MISSING
PORTHOLES
FORECASTLE
Along the
port bow the model has the wrong count of portholes
there were sixteen portholes on the white area, not
fifteen as seen on the model.
An additional
porthole needs to be marked then drilled in the following
location:
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BOAT
DECK
Two
portholes need to be added to the stern side of the Grand Staircase's
Skylight cover. See the SKYLIGHTS
section.
Add
portholes to the following doors:
2 x
Wheelhouse
2 x Officer's Deckhouse
2 x Grand Staircase Foyer
2 x 2nd Class Entrance
A-DECK Add
portholes to the following doors:
2 x
Forward Grand Staircase Foyer
2 x Aft Alcoves behind cloakrooms
2 x Aft Grand Staircase Foyer
2 x Doors by Palm Court
B DECK
Add
portholes to the following doors:
4 x
Cafe Parisien
4 x 2nd Class entrances forward of the 2nd class Smoke Room
2 x 2nd Class entrances under main mast
POOP DECK
In front
of the docking bridge there are two skylights (parts J39). Portholes
need to be added to the aft side of these skylights to match
the forward side. Either paint on with black paint or drill
them out.
STERN HULL - PORT SIDE
Refer
to this diagram for the following section.
C
deck level
Add
8 portholes along the white area of the stern. The grouping
of four around the flagstaff and then a pair on each
side.
The
model comes with 12 portholes along each side of the
hull in this area. Starting just aft of the well deck
and ending just aft of the docking bridge by the bollards.
With a pencil mark a dot the following locations, all
centered within the white painted area:
- 9mm behind
the 12th porthole. Repeat this for the other side.
- 9mm farther
aft from the above mark. Repeat this for the other
side.
- 8mm from
the above mark. Repeat this for the other side.
- 7mm from
the above mark. Repeat this for the other side.
Now the portholes
should appear symmetrical on either side of the flagstaff
with a 7mm gap between the last two pencil marks. Now
either paint black dots or drill the portholes out with
the small bit that you used for the small portholes
along C deck
If you drill
these, placing acetate in behind them under the poop
deck's model piece (I-5) is next to impossible. We found
the easiest solution was to just fill them in with Kristal
Klear.
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D
Deck Level
Use
the Olympic photo on page 20 of Leo Marriott's book
as a visual guide (see above). The portholes on the
model's hull end with a large porthole found just forward
and under the 3rd porthole aft of the well deck in the
white area.
You
need to add one more large porthole and nine smaller
portholes in line and aft of the last -MOLDED- porthole.
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Making
ten added on each side. The large porthole is the size
of the existing portholes molded on the hull and the
remaining nine are about one half the diameter of the
larger portholes.
Use
diagram opposite for a rough guide to position the new
portholes.
The last small D deck porthole should sit just under
the first hawse hole.
We
recommend that you draw the center of the first and
last portholes so you get the proper length in the hull
and then place the missing ones in between them. Jockey
the distances if needed.
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E
deck level
Several
portholes are missing here.
Locate
the E deck gangway door that sits just forward of well
deck above. There should be a series of 8 portholes
grouped into four pairs aft of this door.
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On
the model the first pair is missing the forward porthole.
So drill or paint a porthole in line with rest 5mm behind
the door. It should line up vertically with the 3rd
window from the end of the rectangular C deck windows
above. Use this to triangulate the exact location.
Based
on the Olympic photo on page 20 Leo Marriott `Titanic'
aft of the 4 pairs grouping there should be sixteen
evenly spaced portholes. The model's hull only has seven.
Therefore you have to add the missing 9.
Rather
than provide specific measurements we recommend you
use the following method to mark out the portholes.
Draw the
aft most porthole first. This is located above the second
to last porthole on F deck.
Then
mark eight evenly spaced points between the forward
porthole and the one you just marked. Keeping them in
line with E deck.
Once
marked either paint them with gloss black or drill them
out with the small drill bit used elsewhere on the stern.
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F
deck level
Another
incorrect count but you can get by adding one porthole.
Moving
forward
- The last
windowed hull plate has one porthole. The model gets
this one right.
- The next
plate forward has 4 portholes. The model is right
again.
- The next
plate forward had 5 portholes, the model has only
4. Add a fifth to the bow end of this hull plate and
you are all set.
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G deck level
The
last hull plate aft with port holes had three portholes
in it, the model has two. Add a third porthole 3.5mm
behind the last molded into the hull but make sure it
is before the hull plate seam.
Paint
it on with gloss black or drill out like the others.
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STARBOARD HULL
We do
not have clear enough photos to get an exact count of the portholes
or their placement for the starboard side but we feel it may
not have been much different than the port side. Until we can
come up with correct information we recommend that you duplicate
the port side layout, or temporarily leave it as is until the
data becomes known.
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