The thread that comes with the model for the rigging is too heavy and looks and out of scale. Therefore we suggest you replace the kit's thread with fine nylon monofilament fishing line. Use 10lb. test line for the funnel guy wires and 4lb. Test for all other rigging. All monofilament line was painted flat dark gray for better appearance at scale.

The majority of the rigging in the instruction manual is okay but to add further realism a few alterations and additions are required.

  • Note: The rereleased Mincraft kit now comes with nylon monofilament instead of cotton thread.


Item 1 (bow anchor crane).

Follow the instructions. You might want to add the block and tackle pieces available from the GMM railing kit to the lower ends of the cables. These can be seen in photos of the Titanic's bow.

Item 2 (scratchbuilt block and tackle).

We made small pulleys wherever any cables attached to the foremast stays and #1 funnel stay. Make six pulleys for the bow area and one for the stern.

Make these by cutting small discs from pulled sprue about 0.5mm thick x 1mm diameter. Glue these onto the main stay wire at the location of choice.

After the cables are secured to the deck CA glue them to one of the sides of the "pulley" and trim as close as possible with small scissors or a nail clipper so no tag end is seen.

Painted the pulleys flat black and cables flat dark gray

Item 3 (Making the stem post).

Cut out a stay from the unused A/M railing panels following the same procedure as seen in Item 8.

Create a horseshoe shaped piece from pulled sprue. Attach this to the stay by inserting the two together like a chain link.

When dry, glue the horseshoe end to either side of the prow on the proper angle towards the mast (determined by the cables). Attach the cables to the stay end. Paint the stem and horseshoe white. Paint the stay black. Glue the cables to the stay before mounting them to the mast as the stem will be under strain once the rigging is applied and the stem is more delicate than the mast.

Item 4 (Marconi connectors).

Where the Marconi wires came up from the ship to connect with the antenna wires just forward of and above #2 funnel we made small plastic "connectors".

Make these from plastic scraps cut to around 1mm in length each and CA glue at the point of contact. Paint flat black against the flat dark gray of the Marconi wires.

Farther down the antenna cables between the #3 funnel and #4 funnel we tied blood knots to simulate the connections seen in photos and paintings of the Titanic. See Item 4 below Making The Marconi Wires.

Item 5 (Marconi spreaders).

Rather than use the kit's plastic part to create the mast spreaders for the Marconi wires we suggest you use the GMM spreaders for a much nicer visual appearance. See Item 4 below.

Item 6 (Forward Mast Stay Bullseyes).

In the aft corners of the forward well deck were two wing plates that held the mast stays. You need to make these plates from sheet plastic as they do not come in the kit.

After gluing the cables to these plates add small bullseyes to each point of contact. Take the bullseyes from the base of the spare GMM Lusitania ratlines. Trim off 4 bullseyes and glue one bullseye to each cable where it attaches to the wing plates

When dry paint the bullseyes flat black.

Item 7 (#1 Funnel Bullseyes).

More bullseyes can be found on the third and fourth guy wire cables on each side of the #1 funnel. These allowed the cables to be separated when lowering the collapsible lifeboats from the Officer's Quarters roof.

As above, use the Lusitania ratline bullseyes for these. Trim 4 off and glue one to each cable where it crosses the roof collapsibles. Paint the bullseyes flat black. See Ken Marschall's painting on page 44 of Robert Ballard's "Exploring The Titanic".

Item 8 (#4 Funnel Aft Mast Stays).

Rather than glue rigging cables through the deckhouse roof make the stay brackets from sections of A/M railings.

Item 9 (2nd Class Entrance/Elevator Aft Mast Stays).

See item 7 above.

Item 10 (Aft Mast/Docking Bridge Stay Wire).

The hole in the Poop Deck for this rigging is too far forward, if you used this hole the rigging would interfere with the cowl vent just forward of it. Fill the existing hole and drill a new one approx. 5mm further aft. The new rigging point should be directly in front of the point where the pole running up to the ship's wheel enters the Poop Deck.

Two cables descend from the aft mast and connect to the Poop deck just forward of the Docking Bridge. Directly above the cranes another cable drops down and ties onto the cranes. Add a pulley where the cables join to each other and the securing cable goes down to the cranes.


Item 1 (forecastle mast stay bracket and cable stays).

The kit missed this rigging entirely. These cables ran from the top of the ratlines down to the forecastle deck behind the bow anchor crane. The stay sat between the phone box and the anchor chain hatch cover (both to be added). A good photo of the Olympic's stay can be seen on page 39 of Leo Marriott's "Titanic".

First make the stay bracket (see Item 7 above) and then glue two lengths of monofilament 4lb fishing line to it.

After the paint dries CA glue the bracket to the forecastle deck. The bracket should be on an angle so that when the cables are taut they will point toward the top of the ratlines.

When the bracket is firmly in place dab a small bead of CA glue to the mast on either side were the ratlines go. Now pull the stay lines taut against the glue and wait for a few seconds for them to set. Trim the tag ends flush to the mast. The ratlines will help mask the contact points but care should still be taken non-the-less.

Paint the brackets flat black and the cables dark flat gray.


Item 2 (Wheelhouse Roof/Mast Stay Cargo Span Cable).

A pair of cargo span cables need to be added as follows:

These were attached to a connector plate on the roof of the officer's deckhouse just behind the wheelhouse roof and in front of the big trunk box vent. You can see the connector in Ken Marschall's painting on page 44 of Robert Ballard's "Exploring The Titanic".

The cables rose on an angle to the foremast and attached where the ratlines ended, similar to the forecastle guy location.

Cut a small rectangular connector from sheet plastic (1.5mm long x 1mm wide) and glue it to the officer's deckhouse roof in front of the trunk vent. Paint flat white.

When dry cut two pieces of nylon monofilament line longer than is needed to reach the foremast for easier handling. Apply a dab of CA glue to the connector and place each line into the glue until set. Once set, test fit them up to the foremast. When satisfied dab a small bead of CA to the mast at the proper location and pull the lines taut against the mast/glue dots. Hold until the glue dries a few seconds later.

After the glue has dried, trim the tag ends off as close to the mast as possible using small scissors or nail clippers.

Paint the lines dark flat gray.

Item 3 ("cargo" cables).

From the cable mast stays you have just added in Step 2 there were other cables hanging from pulleys down to the forecastle and well deck areas. See pages 64 & 65 of Leo Marriott's book "Titanic".

Fashion two pulleys by cross cutting through plastic sprue to create two thin discs between 1.5mm and 2mm diameter. Dip these in a small bead of CA glue and place on the underside of the cables added in step 2. They should be roughly in line with the aft end of #2 cargo hatch and the high roller fairleads. Make sure you add one pulley to each cable and NOT both to one or the other cable.

Once set, cut 4 lengths of monofilament longer than required. The exact point of termination at deck level for these lines' are not known so we had to "guesstimate". Examining photos of the Olympic's forecastle it appears that the forward connections were in among the winches that service cargo hatch #2 at the base of the foremast. Therefore dip the end of the monofilament into a bead of CA glue and then hold the end in among the winches on the starboard side. Leave the other end of the cable unattached for now. Repeat this process for the forward port cable mounting it to the inside of the port winch. Allow to dry.

Now apply a bead of CA glue to the forward sides of the pulleys you added to the stay lines in step 2. Pull the line taut and touch it to the glue bead. Allow it to set. Repeat for the other cable/pulley combination. When both cables have set, trim the tag ends off as close as possible but be -VERY- careful not to cut through the stay line or you will have to start over again. We found that nail clippers are very good for this project.

The aft half of this cable on these pulleys seems to terminate somewhere in the well deck. We added ours to the high roller fairleads between cargo hatches #2 and #3. See the FAIRLEAD segment to make these.

The gluing procedure is similar. Dab one end of the line in a bead of CA glue and then attach it to one high roller fairlead. Repeat for the other fairlead. Now apply a dab of CA glue to the aft side of the pulleys above, pull the line taut and touch the lines to the glue. Trim the tag ends off as mentioned earlier being -VERY- careful again not to cut through the mast stay cable.

Paint the pulleys flat black and the cables dark flat gray.

Item 4 (Marconi spreader stabilizer cables).

On the outboard corners of the Marconi spreaders at the tops of each mast were stabilizer cables.

We are not certain where these cables attached to the deck but general consensus is somewhere around the base of the ratlines. So we shared one of the holes in the deck for the ratlines with the stabilizer cables, so add the cables AFTER the ratlines have been installed.

Cut four lengths of monofilament longer than needed.

Glue these lines into the aft footings of the forward well deck's ratlines, one on each side of the well deck. When set, apply a tiny bead of CA glue to the outboard corner of the spreader, pull the line taut and touch the line to the glue. Repeat for the opposite side. Trim the tag ends from the spreader contact point.

Repeat the entire process for the aft mast but glue the cables to the forward leg of the ratline (closest to bow) instead of the aft leg.

When all cables have been glued and trim and paint dark flat gray.

Item 5 (funnel painter's lines).

Atop of each funnel were a pair of painter's lines on both sides of EACH funnel (i.e. 4 painter lines per funnel). See the FUNNEL section Steps 9 and 10 for a description of these lines.

Item 6 (lifeboat rigging).

The majority of davit/lifeboat rigging is covered in the LIFEBOAT section. However, here is some optional rigging for those wishing to add as much detail possible.

Rope 1.

Add the length of rope that extended from the top of each davit arm to the belaying bitt fastened to the deck at the base of each davit. See the BITTS section on how to make these.

Measure the distance from the belaying bitt to the top of the davit arm. Cut 32 sections of monofilament line to this length. Apply a small bead of CA to the bitt and arm and place the line onto the beads with tweezers. Allow to set. Repeat this for all 32 arms and bitts.

Paint this line flat military brown to simulate rope (or whatever you decide to use for your rope color).

Rope 2.

There were coils of rope at the top of each davit arm, underneath the block and tackle. These can be seen on pages 102 and 103 of Don Lynch's "Illustrated History".

Add these by taking lengths of pulled sprue and lightly drag them across the -backside- of your hobby knife's blade. This causes the sprue to coil. Trim the loop form a "C" and dab each end in CA glue. Attach one end to the rigging line that spans from one davit arm to the other and the other end to the rope length tied off to the belaying bitts.

Paint flat military brown to simulate rope as before.

Rope 3.

When the Emergency boats were swung outboard of the superstructure they were held in place by three cables. These can be seen in the picture on page 80 of Leo Marriott's "Titanic".

Make them using nylon monofilament in the 4lb. Test line.

The fore and aft cables form an X pattern across the emergency boat. Each cable was attached to the end of the davit arm. The forward cable attached to the superstructure under the 3rd aft window aft on the enclosed A-deck. The aft cable connected to the superstructure just ahead of the rectangular drain opening on the A-deck forward open promenade.

The center cable ran from the gunwale's superstructure and attached to the cable running from the aft davit arm. (Approx. between the 1st and 2nd windows of A-deck's enclosed promenade).

Glue small pips to the lines here to simulate this connection.

Item 7 (spar cables).

See SPARS section.

Item 8 ("coaling" outrigger cable).

Down either side of the ship's A-deck superstructure were small A-framed "arms". These were swinging brackets that aided in coaling and other activities. The cables ran from the first arm to the last arm looping down between the brackets. See pages 64 & 65 of Leo Marriott's "Titanic". The line doubles back at the forward end of the cable where the enclosed promenade begins. Refer to Ken Marschall's painting on page 130 of "Illustrated History".

Make this cable from 4 pound test nylon monofilament line and glue it to the side of the superstructure using CA glue.

Lay the ship on its side to make working easier and do one swing arm at a time to keep the line more pliable. Add a dab of CA glue to the aft swing bracket and attach the end of the cable. Once set, repeat the process for the next swing arm. Do not pull the cable taught as it sagged between each bracket. Repeat for the entire length.

You can use a "smoked" (i.e. grayish) monofilament line or paint it gray before you glue it to the superstructure. If you have steady hands you can glue it on and THEN paint it. This is the option we chose to avoid the glue smudging the paint on the white of the superstructure's bulwark. Modeler's choice.

Item 9 (A-deck's aft open promenade sun shade cable).

There was a cable that ran the entire length of the aft section of the A-deck's open promenade, attached about 2/5th's of the way down the opening. This cable was used for tying off the bottom edge of a sun shade.

Cut two lengths of monofilament line the length of the open promenade area. Take one end to the aft end of the weather cover. When dry, pull the line taut and tack it to the stanchion representing the location of the aft expansion joint. Tack onto the stanchion below the 4th funnel and the last stanchion of the A-deck promenade.

Applying the cable this way ensures that the line will follow the shear of the ship and not cut across the promenade openings at differing levels. Once dry it is easier to tack the line onto each stanchion between the glued points. This makes the lineup more exact. When complete paint the cable dark flat gray.

Trim the tag ends off at the last stanchion with small scissors or nail clippers (preferred). Repeat this process for the opposite side of the ship.

There was a sunscreen attached to this cable as seen on pages 42 & 43 of " Illustrated History". The cover hung down from the top of the aft open A-deck promenade to the cable. It starts at the enclosed promenade and finishes on the tenth stanchion aft. It is up to you whether you want to install the covers or not. They were not installed when the Titanic left Southampton but were in place when the ship was moored at Queenstown.

Use a Cellophane type wrap (like Saran Wrap) to fashion these covers. Cut this to the correct length and width and glue into place on either side of the ship.

When set, paint with Model Masters Radome Tan to simulate the canvas.

Item 10 (Flagstaff flag line).

The model suggests gluing the flag around and over the flagstaff, we opted to add the flag to a flag line attached to the flagstaff.

To make a sturdier flagstaff replace the model's part with one fashioned from a metal finishing nail. The add a small piece of nylon monofilament.

First CA glue the end of monofilament to the rope cleat you made earlier (See MISCELLANEOUS section). When set, cut the monofilament about 1mm longer than the height of the nail.

Add a dab of glue to the aft underside of the "nail head" and place the end of the line into it (i.e. under the nail head). As the line is longer than the nail the line will bow out towards the stern.

Paint the flagstaff to match the masts (Testor's Model Master Wood) and the flagline (Testors) flat military brown.

As the flag is very fragile add it at the end of the building process to avoid getting it in the way or damaged.

Item 11 (ratline stay connectors).

Cut the turnbuckles off the GMM Lusitania ratlines and glue to the base of the Titanic ratlines.


This site was created by David Cotgreave January 2000