The Titanic had 4 sets of triple whistles, one set per funnel. Of these, only the whistles on funnels one and two were functional while the rear two were there for cosmetic effect. The Academy/Minicraft model does not come with the triple whistle assemblies so the modeler has to fabricate these from scrap plastic.

Parts required:

No. Req. Part
pieces small diameter sprue 2 mm length (small whistle body)
pieces medium diameter sprue 2.75 mm length (medium whistle body)
pieces large diameter sprue 3.5 mm length (large whistle body)
pieces thin diameter sprue for steam pipe/whistle couplings to be determined by whistle width assembly
pieces thin sprue microdots (whistle bolts)

Step 1.

Before you begin construction prepare 5 varying diameter lengths of pulled sprue 10 cm long or more.

1 x very thin diameter (like 1 lb test) for the micro dots.
1 x thin diameter (like 4 LB test) for the steam pipe couplings.
1 x small diameter sprue for the small whistle bodies.
1 x medium diameter sprue for the medium whistle bodies.
1 x large diameter sprue for the large whistle bodies.

Step 2.

Prepare the individual pieces for each whistle assembly.

  1. Cut 4 x 3.5 mm lengths of the largest pulled sprue and set aside.
  2. Cut 4 x 2.75 mm lengths of the medium pulled sprue and set aside.
  3. Cut 4 x 2 mm lengths of the small sprue and set aside

You now have all the whistle bodies made.

Step 3.

To make the bolts for each whistle use the very thin pulled sprue and cut/slice a small tab off of the end so you have a tiny pieces less than a grain of salt in size. Make twelve of these (and extras in case you lose some). Set these aside.

Step 4.

The whistles had rounded flare bottoms that sat on the pipe coupling. This requires a bit of finesse but can be achieved with practice.

You will need a constant heat source. We used a stubby broad based candle held inside of a Testor's spray paint plastic lid for safety.

When you have the thin sprue handy, light the candle and prepare to make the flared whistle ends. Make these one at a time as they require molding, cooling and cutting. Repeat the process for the next one.

Hold the thin sprue about 6-8 cm off to the side and above the tip of the flame. Move the sprue in from the side very S-L-O-W-L-E-Y to place the rod into the heat plume thrown off by the flame. This allows you to control the diameter of the flare being created.

The whistles being different diameters require different sized flared bases.

Small flared bases:
Use the small diameter sprue and as soon as the sprue begins to flare pull it back and allow to cool. Once cooled remove the flare from the pulled sprue `rod' with your hobby knife and set aside. Repeat this three more times for the other whistles (make a few spares in case you lose some).

Medium flared bases:
Use the medium diameter sprue and repeat the process for the smaller bases but leave it in the heat longer, then pull it back, let cool and cut off. Repeat three times.

Large flared bases:

Use the large diameter sprue and repeat the process for the medium bases but leave it in the heat for longer again. Repeat three times.

Step 5.

Now assemble the whistles.

Take the thin pulled sprue made for the steam pipe coupling and place it in front of you.

Gather the other parts and place them in their groups. In each group you should have:

1 x small whistle body
1 x medium whistle body
1 x large whistle body
1 x small flared base
1 x medium flared base
1 x large flared base
3 x microdots

DO NOT CUT the pulled sprue steam pipe to length yet as this will make handling easier. Add a small dab of glue along the first 4 -5 mm. Place the three flared ends with their round end down as follows: SMALL - LARGE -MEDIUM, with the small flare on the end of the 'pipe'.

You can glue the large flare into the center first and then add the medium and small on either side, whichever is most comfortable for you.

Step 6.

Once the 3 rounded flares are dry, add a dab of glue to the top of each flare and place the appropriate whistle body to its flare (small/small, large/large, etc.).

Step 7.

Once set, put a dab of glue on to the top center of each whistle and add the microdot. These are hard to pick up so the easiest way we have found is to use a flat toothpick. Dab the toothpick to your tongue and the little bit of spittle will bond the microdot to the toothpick. Then place it on the dab of glue. The surface tension of the glue is stronger and will pull the microdot off the toothpick.

Repeat for each whistle.

Step 8.

When the assembly is finished spread a small amount of CA glue or equivalent onto it to strengthen the unit.

Step 9.

When dry take your hobby knife and trim the whistle unit off of the sprue `pipe' to a length equal to the width of the outer flared ends, no less and no more!

Step 10.

Repeat steps 5-9 three more times to complete your set of 4 triple whistle assemblies.

Step 11.

When your funnels are ready (paint the black and White Star Buff *FIRST*) add a dab of glue and position your whistle assembly. It should be placed so that the large whistle is centered on to the small pipe that runs up the bow face of the funnel. This is the pipe that terminates at the White Buff area, not the longer one that reaches in to the black area.

Make sure to glue the finished unit onto the funnel with the small whistle on the STARBOARD side!

Step 12.

Repeat step 11 three more times to complete your new Titanic triple whistle set.

Step 13.

When dry, paint the whistles as follows:

Steam Coupler - flat black (or the black you used to paint the funnel caps).
Whistles - we used a mix of a silver and brass WASH over the white plastic.

  • Note: a wash is created by breaking down the pigment concentration of the paint so that it is translucent rather than opaque. We mixed the silver/brass combo to the color we wanted and then diluted this with thinner.

This site was created by David Cotgreave January 2000