The bulkheads of the model have many features from the Olympic rather than Titanic. A few changes need to be made to make them historically correct as well as a few cosmetic changes to dress up existing features.

Moving from the bow to the stern:



See photo of the finished Forecastle for reference.


Item 1 (breakwater splashguard.)

The breakwater splashguard flanking the aft side of #1 hatch is angled too far back and should be moved ahead about 3mm from its present position.

This is -not- an easy task and should only be attempted by skilled modelers. Steve and I (Mike) left ours at the default location. If we were to do it we would just scrap the model's forecastle and make a new one out of Evergreen planked sheet plastic and build all the details from scratch.

  • Note: This fix is not required on the reissue of the Minicraft 1:350.

Item 2 (railing cap on breakwater splashguard).

Fashion a railing cap for each splashguard using pulled sprue cut to length and slightly angled on each end to fit the contours of the hatch and gunwales. Sand this slightly flat.

When dry, paint this flat white not dark as seen on the Olympic.

Paint the stanchions on the back of the Titanic's breakwater black.

Item 3 (stanchions on port and starboard railings).

The forecastle had break away railings along the port and starboard sides located roughly between the two pairs of bollards outboard of #1 hatch.

Construct these from scrap GMM railings and glue them to the deck on angled outboard to the railing.

These can be seen on the Olympic on page 12 of Robert Ballard's "Exploring The Titanic" or the enlarged of the same area in Paul Quinn's "Titanic At Two".

Paint these flat white to match the railings.



Item 1 (bracket).

Underneath the forecastle canopy forward of #2 hatch is a small bulkhead with two portholes in it. In the center between the portholes is a small cleat like looking device.

Make this from a 2.5mm long piece of scrap plastic about the width of a railing post or rail.

See photo of the Olympic's forecastle in Quinn's Titanic At Two.

Item 2 (canopy joists).

Add two curved joist supports running along the `ceiling' from the aft side of the forecastle's deck to the face of the above bulkhead, one on each side.

See Olympic photo mentioned above.

Item 3 (stay plates).

On the aft outboard corners of the forward well deck where it intersects with the forward C-deck bulkhead were two curved plates attached to the hull and the bulkhead. These were mast stays.

Make these from sheet plastic and drill two small holes in them each for the guy wires and turnbuckles.

Paint flat white to match the face of the upper half of C-deck forward.

See diagram under "well deck stanchions " below and page 44 of Robert Ballard's Exploring The Titanic.

Item 4 (jackstay railing).

Along the top of C-deck forward was a railing-like structure that ran the length of the bulkhead (about 1mm down from B deck's wooden handrail). This was interrupted by the B deck/well deck stairway and signage to port of the stairway.

Fashion this out of 4lb. test monofilament fishing line and paint it flat white to match the upper half of the bulkhead.

See diagram in B deck Forward section under "door scribing" below.

Item 5 (seam repairs).

Fill the seam between the C deck bulkhead and the well deck's hull bulwarks (where the stay plates are added) with Kristal Klear. Once painted flat white it will look solid. This is far neater and easier than using modeling putty and works just as well.

Item 6 (well deck stanchions).

We `ribbed' the inside of the well deck's hull bulwarks with stanchions to give the ship a more `metal' look.

Make the ribs from A/M's railings (if you have purchased the GMM or Tom's Modelworks railings).

Take sections of the A/M's 1-bar railing and cut it to the appropriate length (approx. 42mm). Next cut down the center of the railing creating two halves that contain one rail and several posts (which will become the stanchions).

On our models there is a slight gap between the well deck and hull meet. This railing fits into this gap perfectly and made the hull/well deck seam flush.

Dry fit both sides and when satisfied, glue into place down each side. When set, paint rust red to match the lower half of the well deck.

Item 7 (hand rail customizing).

You will notice that the C-deck forward bulkhead sits slightly back from where the opening for the well deck aft drops down in the hull's sides. This recessed wall is about 1mm back from being flush to the hull's lower well deck height. On the model this is just a sharp right angle (bulkhead/well deck meeting).

If you look at the photograph of Captain Smith looking out of the starboard side's wing cab window you can see that the actual handrail flares out from the top of C deck's bulkhead to be flush with the well deck's aft curved opening in the hull plating.

Make this decorative flare out of sheet plastic to a width of 1mm and length of 2mm making it curve in.

Glue one to each corner along C deck's bulkhead (B deck's hand rail) and painted dark brown to match the rest of the handrail.

B DECK (forward)


Item 1 (door scribing).

There are two portholes on the face of B deck forward. These are in fact doors that need to be fashioned either from sheet plastic, or scribed onto this part itself.

See DOORS segment.

Item 2 (builder's plaque).

The builder's plaque sat centrally between the 3rd and 4th window just under the top level of the window frames.

Make this out of pulled sprue about 1.5mm long x 1mm high and glue it on to the bulkhead.

Paint with Testor's brass.

  • Note: Duane Fowler's decal kit now comes with the addition of this builder's plaque.

Item 3 (window note/A deck support stanchions).

The windows along B deck forward are wrong. See the WINDOWS section for the `fix'.

The Titanic had three support stanchions on either side of the ship that held up the section of A deck overhanging the open B deck area. The model only has two. (Molded onto the Boat Deck Walls L & R). See any Titanic photo of the area in question.

To make the stanchions sand two pieces of scrap plastic into a rectangular shape. Cut to about 4mm tall.

Glue the stanchion in the middle of the B deck handrail and in line to B deck forward's bulkhead. This should place the top about 1mm from the outboard corner of the A deck overhang. They also angle off inboard along their tops.

Item 4 (bulkhead jackstay handrail).

Another railing -like object runs along the entire length of the forward B deck bulkhead just under the handrail for A-deck's forward open promenade.

Cut a 120mm length of 4lb monofilament line or pulled sprue. Tack one end on to the bulkhead with CA glue 1mm below the hand rail and then pull it tight and over so the line will be as straight as possible. Then dab a bit of CA to the opposite corner and place the line into the glue and allow to dry.

When dry, tack the line in three spots along its length. This is more than enough to hold it in place.

After the CA had cured, trim off the 40mm tag end. Paint flat white to match the bulkhead.

See the photo of Captain Smith looking down from wing cab mentioned above and diagram in B deck forward section.

Item 5 (kickstrip).

If your B deck is not sitting 100% flush to C deck you can fill the gap with an Evergreen strip along the bottom of B deck forward's bulkhead. This will this line up and give the model a more solid overall appearance.

Item 6 (stanchions).

There are stanchions behind the B/C deck bulwark/bulkhead (respectively).

Make these by cutting GMM brass railings between the panel posts (5 or 6 bar Lusitania are best). Mark points 8-10mm along the aft side of the bulkhead/bulwark with a pencil. (We hadn't painted the bulkhead's handrails at this stage so we made the marks where the railings should go so we could paint over them).

Stanchion gluing method:

Cut off 30 or 40 rail sections at a time. Make a puddle of CA glue on your gluing block. Use your tweezers to pick up a stanchion by one end and then dip the other in the glue. Place it onto the deck in line with one of your pencil markings. Hold this stanchion upright on the deck and in a few seconds the will glue cure and the stanchion will balance itself.

Repeat this for about 4 stanchions at a time.

When the CA has cured use the tip of your hobby knife to bend them forward so the top of the stanchion will touch the backside of the bulwark/bulkhead. Repeat for all the stanchions. Then dab the tip of a piece of pulled sprue into the CA glue and apply it to the point where the stanchion's and the bulkhead meet. This anchors the stanchion at both points and leaves few glue marks on the finished product.

Repeat this until all stanchions are complete.

Paint the stanchions flat white.

Item 7 (rectangular drainage hole scuppers on open promenades).

There are rectangular holes on both part and starboard sides. These were located a the B deck planking level centered between the 4th and 5th porthole back from the forward well deck 'cutout'. Refer to any side view of Titanic.

There has been much debate over what these were and as yet there has been no definite conclusion. We feel they were scuppers for draining sea water. This area would be susceptible to heavy water accumulation in rough seas and it would make sense to have a large hole located here to deal with water accumulating against the B deck stateroom wall due to the ship's sheer.

Whatever they are, you will need to create them in the hull section.

Mark out the length with two adjacent pencil dots and then drilled them out with a small bit. Next slowly cleaned up the edges with the tip of the sharp hobby knife you have a rectangular hole. Some of the authors framed these holes using a single segment of a rail panel cut into a thin rectangle and sanded down so that it was not too thick. This gives a more exacting rectangular shape.

Paint the frames white to match the color of the hull.

A DECK (forward)


Item 1 (bulkhead handrail under windows).

Add a handrail along the entire length of A Deck forward's bulkhead underneath the windows. See Leo Marriott's Titanic - page 106.

Glue this on using the same procedure used for the B/C bulkhead railings.

Paint this railing brown.

Item 2 (remove incorrect model handrails).

The handrail ends at the corners of A-deck forward's bulkhead. Sand off the railings going around the corners on the crew stairwell (or at least do not paint them brown).

Item 3 (closed promenade partitions).

There was a weather cover containing a door and a window on either side of A deck forward, these were located just aft of the crew stairwells. The Partition sat perpendicular to the A deck bulkhead then bent aft by 35-45 degrees about halfway across the width of the promenade walkway (like a gull wing) until it joined the inside of the superstructure's weather cover. See Robert Ballard's 'Discovery Of The Titanic'.

Measure the inside dimensions of the open promenade from bulkhead to the edge of the deck. Then add a millimeter or so to allow for the bend. You can also use a strip of card board bent to the right angle.

Cut 2 sheet plastic rectangles to size and bend them aft by 35+ degrees, then cut out the window on the outboard/angled side of the partition. You may need to make a couple as you will need to dryfit the superstructure together with the outboard weather covers on to get the proper fit. We just held everything together with elastics to get the measurements.

Now glue the doors on (see DOORS section).

When dry, glue the partitions to the A-deck port and starboard bulkheads behind the stairwells. The swept back part of the partition must touch the outer superstructure weather cover forward of the first window but behind the rectangular drain hole you will be adding later. See Item 4 below. This is IMPORTANT!

The doors should be facing toward the bow and the window angled towards the outer promenade covering.

Item 4 (rectangular drainage hole scuppers on open promenades).

These are similar to what was found on B deck forward.

There were rectangular scupper openings on both the port and starboard sides of the A-deck forward's open promenade. The forward corner of the rectangle sat above and in line with the aft of the 1st stateroom window on B deck aft of the forward well deck.

See B deck forward - Item 7 for details on how to make these.

Item 5 (stanchions).

See the information in Item 6 of B deck forward above for details pertaining to the A-deck stanchions.

Where the roof joists meet the stanchions below the bridge you will see small curved plates.

If you decide to add these make them from small triangles of sheet plastic and glue them to the point where the joists and open promenade stanchions meet.

BOAT DECK (forward)


Item 1 (stairwell canopies)

  • Note: The has now been fixed on the Minicraft reissue of the model.

The crew stairwells on the kit are too wide and have a canopy over them that the Titanic did not have.

You can narrow them if you like which requires cutting off the old stairwells, adding sheet plastic to the deck, puttying, sanding, and rescribing or leave them as they are (as we did).

However, you should at least remove the canopies.

The easiest way we found to do this was to take the Boat Deck over to a bench grinder, put on your safety glasses, turn it on, flip the boat deck upside down and then s l o w l y apply the canopy cover to the grinding wheel removing the top half of it. A Dremel grinding tool will also work.

As the bench grinder spins very fast it not only dissolves the canopies but melts the plastic as well. So Rather than grind down to the required height we stopped just short of what we wanted by about 0.25mm and let the flash cool. Then we trimmed off the flash (caused by the melting plastic from the grinder speed) and used a small flat file to reduce the height to what we wanted. When we were satisfied with the end product we painted the canopies flat white.

  • Note: These canopies had hand railings down their sides just below the top level. Create these from 4lb. Test nylon monofilament and glue them into place with CA glue, paint them flat white to match the rest of the stairwell opening

Item 2 (officer's deckhouse).

The port side of the officer's deckhouse is fairly close to what existed, however, the starboard bulkheads need to be rearranged for historical accuracy.

Resent research between Bob Read & Bruce Beveridge has pinned down the configurations of the deck house walls.

The fixes are now a lot simpler than previously thought in that you no longer have to slice and dice the bulkheads.

Port side:

Add the skidlights. See SKYLIGHT section for instructions.

Add fifth window aft. See WINDOWS section for instructions.

Fill sixth window aft of the door.

Move aft most decklamp forward. See diagram above. See DECKLAMPS section.

File or sand off the door. Then make a new one out of sheet plastic and glue it slightly further aft. See DOORS section on how to make doors.

Add expansion joint.

Starboard side:

Add the skidlights. See SKYLIGHT section for instructions.

Add third window aft of the door. See WINDOWS section for instructions.

Move decklamps to locations seen in diagram above. See DECKLAMPS section.

Add expansion joint.

After these modifications you may find the the handrail has been removed in some places. Replace this with 4lb monofilament test line.

Item 3 (Grand staircase Foyer/Gym walls).

In the Jack Futrelle photo the you can see that the Titanic had a kick plate running along the edge of the deckhouse at deck level. See page 76 of Leo Marriott's 'Titanic'.

Simulate these by cutting Evergreen plastic strips to length and gluing them on their sides on both exterior sides of the Grand Staircase Foyer as well as along the Gym. This also has the added bonus of helping connect the deckhouse to the deck if you did not get an absolutely flush mount.


For instructions on simulating glass in the Gym windows see the WINDOWS section.

Item 4 (Grand staircase aft port wall).

Part J29 of the Academy/Minicraft model is completely wrong. It shows only two arched windows when there should be a door to the port side. To correct this you will need to slice'n dice again.

  1. Cut the extreme right side of J29 off with a hobby knife.
  2. Cut the area -between- the windows out.
  3. Glue the remaining window halves together.
  4. The parts you cut out, move to the port side of the windows and glue.
  5. Putty the new seams and sand flush when dry.

The same holds true for the A-deck's port version immediately below. Also see DOORS and WINDOWS sections.

Item 5 (handrails).

Tall of the Boat deck's handrails were white not brown as seen on other decks.

Handrails need to be added to the Grand Staircase's exterior foyer walls. Not all the railings were installed before the ship left so it is important where you place these correctly.

On the port side add (from fore to aft):

  1. One between the 2nd and 3rd windows.
  2. One between the 3rd and 4th windows

Refer to photos of the Countess of Rothes leaning over the boat deck railing.

On the starboard side add (from fore to aft):

  1. One between the Gym door and first window aft
  2. One between the 2nd and 3rd window
  3. One between the 3rd and 4th window.

The rest of the wall did not have them. You can sand the existing ones down or create new ones out of scrap pulled sprue cut to length.

Refer to the uncropped versions the Father Browne photo of Jacques Futrelle.

Item 6 (Raised Roof - reading & writing room).


A set of 3 windows needs to be added. See the WINDOW section for the fix.


The deckhouse ladder is in the wrong location see LADDERS section for information.


On some models there is a large gap between the the raised roof bulkheads of the Read/Writing room and the surrounding Boat Deck planking. One solution to this is to glue an Evergreen strip on the inside edge of the hole in the boat deck.

Our solution was to extend the forward R/W roof line by 2mm using Evergreen plastic strips. This made the ladder fix easier and allowed for the placement of the missing three window panes mentioned above.


There was a gutter between the raised roof and the deck. Paint a 1mm gray stripe around the edge of the opening in the deck.

Item 7 (Raised Roof - Lounge).

Incorrect Roofline:

The profile of the raised roof on the model is that of the Olympic. The Titanic's Lounge roof did not turn in between the bay windows by the large cowl vents but continued in a straight line.

To remedy this place the roof onto a piece of sheet plastic and trace the 'V' shape between the bay windows. Cut the sheet plastic to shape and glue one into each 'v' opening in the roof.

Later your will be placing a vent on top of these areas (see VENTS section) you can either leave a small notch on the inside edge for the duct to pass through, or cut the duct off the vent and glue it on separately underneath between the bay windows against the wall.

After inserts are added glue Evergreen K1 kickstrips down the entire length to make it look like one uniform piece as seen in the Odell photos.

Paint the inserts to match the roof decking color and leave the side kickstrips white.

Drain holes in Corners:

In the aft corners of the Lounge's raised roof were drain holes to drain water to the Boat deck's gutters running along the roof contours. You can simulated these with either a hot staple pressed into the plastic or just paint them on using a toothpick and flat black paint.

These are also visible in the Odell photos. See page 42 of Don Lynch's "Illustrated History".


There was a gutter between the raised roof and the deck. Paint a 1mm gray stripe around the edge of the opening in the deck.

Item 8 (#3 funnel deckhouse).


Sliding doors need to be added (see DOORS section).

Lamps & Railings:

Decklamps need adding. See the DECKLAMPS section. A handrail needs to be added along the portside wall just aft of the sliding door on the port cubicle.

Photo of the Olympic's deck showing the portside of #3 funnel deckhouse.

The railing along the roof by the water pipes that cross over to the Tank room were not on the Titanic. Disregard the kit's recommendation and use the pattern layout as seen in the diagram below.

Roof Modifications:

Refer to the diagram below for the following changes.

The roof on the starboard side on the Olympic was slightly raised. It is our belief that Titanic's was identical.

Fashion this from sheet plastic and glue it to the existing roof to represent the slight height difference.

Paint this a lighter gray than the rest of the deckhouse roof.

Add two service hatches one to the starboard side of the forward trunk vent and the other to port and aft of it. Use either sheet plastic strips a pencil to draw the outline on the roof.


Item 9 (Tank room windows, rails and door).

The starboard side needs to have the aft window filled in. See details in the WINDOWS section.

Once this starboard window is filled in a door needs to be added here as discussed in the DOOR section.

There is a curved railing along the port bow roofline as seen in the diagram below.

Make this from scrap GMM or Tom's Modelworks single bar photoetched railings and glue into position. Paint white to match other railings.

Item 10 (adding handrails).

There was a hand rail on the port side of the tank room. This can be seen in the photo on page 106 of Titanic Triumph and Tragedy and Ken Marshall's painting of the Titanic breaking up. Make this out of 4lb fishing line.

There is no photographic evidence that a hand rail existed on the starboard side. Logic would suggest that one existed but there are some inconsistencies on the deck rails of the Titanic as can be seen in Father Browne's Futrelle photograph. Modeler's choice.

Item 11 (filling in #4 funnel deckhouse windows).

See the WINDOWS section for modification of the deck house windows.

Item 12 (3 portholes on the aft of the Raised Smoke Room roof).

The stern facing side of the Smoke room's raised roof had 3 portholes in it as seen on page 169 of Robert Ballard's Discovery Of The Titanic book. See WINDOWS section for specifics.

Drain holes:

Similar to the Lounge's drain holes. See Item 7 above.

Refer to the Cork Examiner photos.

Item 13 (2nd Class Entrance - windows).

The bow facing wall is incorrect. There needs to be a pair of arched windows along this wall, not one as seen on the kit. See the WINDOWS section for the fix procedure.

Item 14 (2nd Class Entrance - adding handrails).

There were two hand rails on the port side of the 2nd Class Entrance. This can be seen in the photo on page 60 of Titanic Triumph and Tragedy. Make this out of 4lb fishing line.

There is no photographic evidence that a hand rail existed on the starboard side, although Ken Marschall paints it in his cutaway. Logic suggests that one existed. Modeler's choice.

Item 15 (port and starboard bulwark stanchions).

There were support stanchions along the inboard side of the Boat deck superstructure bulwarks the same as the stanchions seen on A and B deck forward and aft. The stanchions start at the wing cabs and finish at the last group of lifeboats down each side of the ship.

See the information covered under B deck Forward's Item 6 to see how to make them and place them. We continued with the 8-10mm placement distance for the 1/350.

  • Note: if you are adding the rain gutters at the base of these bulwarks do so before you add the stanchions! The same holds true if you wish to add the bulwark ribbing seen along the inboard sides of the open area bulwarks.

A DECK (amidships)


Item 1 (Forward Grand Staircase).

The walls in this area are incorrect, the deckhouse walls turn in too far forward. The walls on the model turns inboard level with the elevators rather than with the wall that houses the Honor and Glory clock, this is about 4-5mm further aft.

Give this fix some thought. It's a very small distance and will not be seen. Steve and I left ours as is feeling that the work required was not worth the effort because you can't see into this section of the model very well.

You will have to effect this change on both sides of the A deck GSC foyer.

This requires moving the entire GSC aft. This realignment requires at least 6 cuts (2 fore and 4 aft) a will weaken the A-deck bulkhead structures.

Cut a 4-5mm section of out of the bulkheads aft of the GSC and set aside. (i.e. the ones running aft from the aft wall). Cut through the bulkheads just forward where the GSC outboard. Now move the GSC section aft and glue onto aft running bulkhead. Now glue the sections you set aside into the gaps.

Item 2 (Starboard Hallway to lounge).

The window layout needs to be modified. See WINDOWS section.

Item 3 (aft Grand staircase foyer).

The aft Grand staircase is way too far forward and has to be moved back by approx. 21mm.

The forward line of the GSC has to be moved back to line up with the aft side of the Tank Room above. This area IS visible through the open promenade so we recommend that this change be made.

On either side of the aft GSC there were two cabins these were occupied by Father Browne on the starboard side A37 (until Queenstown) and Thomas Andrews on the port side A36.

To make the changes calls again for some cutting out of deck walls and rearranging as follows:

Starboard Fix:

You will need to cut away a section of wall aft of cabin A37 and place it in front of cabin.

Find the first bay window of the 1st class smoking room. Forward of this wall you will see a door and three windows. Cut this wall just in front of the first window ahead of the door.

Next measure ahead 21-22mm and cut again. Remove this section and gently file both ends flat.

Now make another cut in the bulkhead directly in front cabin A 37, between the door and the forward wall of the cabin. This makes A37 a free standing piece. File the ends of the cut.

Now take A37 and dry fit it to the bulkhead just forward of the Smoke Room bay window. You will see that A37's new position sits over the original gluing track. Mark with a pencil everywhere A37 lays over the track. Now remove the track with a file or hobby knife at the pencil lines. Test fit A37 again. If it sits flush to the deck glue it into place butted up against the wall in front of the bay window.

Now take the piece you cut out from behind A37 and insert it in front of the relocated cabin. It should fit in between the the door and the small tab of wall you left on the A37.

When dry putty the seams, sand and paint the deckhouse walls white. Trim the windows with brown paint EXCEPT for the PALM COURT WINDOWS which stay white!

Port Fix:

To fix the port side make one cut just ahead of the portside Bay window and then second cut 21-22mm ahead of that. Remove this section and gently file both ends flat.

Now cut the wall a third time at the inside corner were A36 joins the wall with the door and six windows. A36 should now be freestanding. File any cuts you have made square.

Now move A36 back and dry fit it to the Bay window wall.

Mark where it lays on the gluing track as you did earlier and then remove the track at the marks.

A36 should sit flush. Glue A36 into its new location.

Now to tackle the bulkhead in front of A 36. There are three options here:

Option 1 and 2 are simple fixes but leave the windows incorrectly spaced. If you are not bothered by the misaligned door/windows you can skip this step. The area is seen but blocked somewhat by the tank room roof supports and sunscreen if you add that. We did not make this particular change on ours, only the A36 change. Modeler's choice.

Option 1:

Simply take the piece you removed and place it in front of A36 to join up with the wall that has the door and 6 windows. It should span the gap perfectly. Glue it into place and let dry.

Option 2:

Cut about 4mm off of the 21-22mm piece and glue the resulting 17mm section in front of A36. Now cut the 6 window/1 door section off and move it back 4mm to butt up with the front of the 17mm wall section and place the 4mm wall panel on the front of the 6 window/1 door section.

Option 3:

Build an entirely new wall. See WINDOWS section for information on this.

When done putty the seams, sand and paint as suggested for the starboard side.

Diagram of changes to the aft Grand staircase area.

Item 4 (circular drain hole scuppers along open A-deck promenade).

There were two holes at deck level on the port and starboard sides. These were located as follows:

The forward holes sat behind the last window of the enclosed A-deck weather cover. This is the point where the bulkhead curves down to begin the first open section of the aft open promenade began.

The aft holes sat just forward of the aft expansion joint behind the coaling bracket arms.

Marke them with a pencil to ensure they lined up properly and drill these out with a small bit.

A DECK (aft)


Item 1 (poles moved).

There are four poles along the aft of A-deck holding up the Boat Deck 2nd class area above. The center two poles on part C23 are incorrectly placed and need to be moved outboard to align with the outboard edges of the two arched windows. See page 77 of Leo Marriott's "Titanic" in the Father Browne photo of this area.

Carefully slice off the center two poles and then glue them into their new locations.

Paint the poles and the top bar white.

The poles sat in the deck so paint the bottom 'bar' to match the color you chose for the deck planking.

An alternative method is to fill the slot in the deck. Replace all of the poles with Evergreen rod. Drill holes in the deck and insert the poles into the holes. This takes a little bit of measuring but the result looks great.

There were ladders inboard of the outer poles. See LADDERS section.

Item 2 (poles added).

Two poles need to be added here, one on the port side and one on the starboard side.

These were located roughly halfway between the outboard poles with the ladders mentioned above and the corner of the deckhouse bulkhead.

Construct these from pulled sprue or microrod and cut them to a length equal in distance from A-deck's planking to the underside of the Boat deck's 2nd class area canopy. Make sure you have these straight when you glue them or it will stand out like a sore thumb when compared to the others.

Item 3 (roof joists).

There were small curved plates along the open promenade areas of A-deck where the roof joists meet the stanchions . Refer to page 72 Leo Marriott's 'Titanic'.

If you decide to add these make them from small triangles of sheet plastic and glue them where the joists and stanchions meet.

B DECK (aft)


Item 1 (bar/lavatory - window).

Add a window to the bulkhead wall on the starboard side over #4 hatch. See the WINDOWS segment for details.

Item 2 (2nd Class Entrance - windows).

Not that they can be seen on the model but you can add 2 windows to the front bow facing wall.

See the WINDOWS segment for details.

Item 3 (B deck aft stanchions).

The stanchions behind the Cafe Parisien on both sides of the ship are too far inboard (part 'Boat Deck Windows L & R'). These should sit on the hand railings, not behind them.

Cut off the entire stanchion assembly hanging below the promenade bulkhead and separate each stanchion. After the decks were glued together, measured the height of the opening from the bottom of A deck to the rail and cut each stanchion to fit its new location ON the railing.

Add a dab of glue to the B deck railing and under A-deck. Then use tweezers to put each stanchion in place one at a time, make sure that they are absolutely straight up and down. If you don't get them both vertical AND parallel they will stick out immediately. The end result looks much better than the model's depiction

If you feel uncomfortable with this 'fix' then just leave the model's original method, though not horrible it's just isn't accurate. Modeler's choice.

Add curved plates to stanchions as described in Item 3 of A Deck Aft.



Item 1 (well deck stanchions).

These are the same as the forward well deck. See the Forward Well Deck Item 6. The only difference is that the rear sections of rail are 45mm in length each.

Item 2 (aft well deck bulwarks under poop deck canopy).

On the outboard sides of part I 5 (Poop deck) there are small bulkheads that turn in on a right angle. This is incorrect. These only had the face bulwark and did not turn in at all.

Cut the bow/stern section off with a hobby knife.

Immediately behind these straight walled bulwarks sat thermotanks.

You can also add doors to the sides of the 3rd class entrance house. See DOORS section.

Item 3 (propellor spanner/wrenches).

On the face of these bulwarks there were two very large spanners used for installing and removing the lock nuts for the propellors. These sat outboard of each opening at an angle of 45 degrees. Refer to the Cork examiner and Father Browne photos of the Titanic's Poop deck. The spanners can be clearly seen in later photos of the Olympic.

These were like a long post with a 'C' shape on the end and were loced onto the bulkhead with a brackets on their top end.

Illustration based on a drawing by Scott Andrews.


This spanner was about 2/3rds the height of the bulkhead and was probably used for the centre propellor.


This spanner was nearly as long as the bulkhead is high and was probably used for the outboard propellors.



There are tow methods for making the spanners.

Method 1

Use the new Tom's model works misc set.

Method 2

Make these from sheet plastic cut to the shape opposite and glue on.

Paint white on the top and rust red on the bottom to match the paint scheme of the well deck.

Thanks to Scott Andrews and Bruce Beveridge for this information.

Drawing of Propellor assembly showing spanner in use by Scott Andrews.


Item 4 (optional items - more under poop deck details).

You can add more bulkheads to fill in the gaps the kit leaves in the aft wall. You will have a little difficulty seeing these so it's up to you whether you add them or not.


The interior wall extended all the way out to the starboard side. Cut a section of sheet plastic to size and glue into place.


Add the bulkheads for the bar. This is an 'L' shaped bulkhead extending forward from the aft wall and turning to meet the outer hull.

Make this from an 11mm length of sheet plastic bent at the 6mm mark.

There was a door on the starboard wall. See DOORS section.

The walls are split white and rust in color.


This site was created by David Cotgreave January 2000