20 (painting the hull).
is a multi-step process. There are a number of ways to
paint the hull and what we suggest here is not necessarily
the best or the easiest way. We have not tried every conceivable
idea to find that perfect combination but what follows
worked well for us and does NOT require anything more
than spray paints, masking tape, small paint brush, bottle
paint and newspapers.
1 Painting The White Interior.
this step if you do not plan to light the interior.
Painting the interior white increases the reflective quality
from the light source and helps to increase the ambiance.
Paint the interior BEFORE the exterior because the white
paint may run through the portholes and get on to the
outer hull areas.
2 Painting The Black.
sure you are in a well ventilated dust free area when
you go to paint the hull. We did ours outdoors. First
spread newspapers out onto a table and tape them down
so a breeze will not cause them to lift and hit the wet
hull. Next place the hull on its gunwales to protect the
white interior from overspray (if you painted it white)
and paint the hull with the flat black spray using quick
strokes about 10 inches away from the surface. Go back
and forth to feather in each pass. Paint in stages rather
than all at once. Too much paint or too close will cause
the paint to run. We recommend spray paint over using
a brush for a more uniform finish and speed.
flat black (we used Testors) will dry quickly in the sun,
however, let the paint cure for a full day before adding
the next color to the hull.
paint the rudder stick it upside down in disposable putty.
This will hold it while you paint it. If you don't have
putty take a piece of bread and knead it until it becomes
like a dough, then press it onto the table and stick whatever
you want held into it. Hey, we improvise like this all
the entire hull black not only provides the center pigment
on the hull but acts as a uniform primer for both the
white and red to be added next.
3 Painting The White.
painting the white section of the hull we need to take
the yellow stripe into account. The yellow paint looks
better painted onto a white background rather than the
black. When painting the white area make sure you include
the additional width of the yellow stripe. Using a good
masking tape place a strip of tape along the hull where
THE BOTTOM EDGE OF THE YELLOW
is to go. In other words the tape itself is entirely on
the ship's black painted plating.
around the perimeter of the ship. Then take strips of
newspaper and cover the lower half of the hull below the
tape line to protect the black areas from any white overspray.
When done take the ship back to your well ventilated spray
area and paint the top white. We had to apply two coats
to get a solid white pigment over the black. We did both
coats of white in the same day and a couple of hours apart.
the paint is dry remove the newspapers shielding from
the lower half of the model but keep the original masking
tape line you used for the divider between the white and
black areas (this is also the bottom of the yellow line).
4 Painting The Yellow Stripe.
tape another line along the hull's perimeter but 3/64"
above the other masking tape. Keep these as parallel as
possible. The stripe ran just below the 'cut out' in the
well deck so use this as a guide to the TOP of the yellow
careful with the bow hawse holes (where the name Titanic
sits between) these were in the BLACK hull section so
take this into consideration when taping your lines.
the square windows on C deck just in front of the aft
well deck are molded too low. These windows sat totally
in the white section on the real Titanic. You can cheat
a bit here and mask the line so it just scrapes the bottom
sills . The alternative is to move the windows up with
a slice and dice sheet plastic job, putty and much work.
We opted to leave the windows as is and touch their sills
with the yellow.
curve of the stern will poses some difficulties with the
masking tape. We recommend you use several small pieces
of tape to work the curvature. If you try it with a long
piece of masking tape, the tape will want to crease and
it is absolutely CRITICAL to have no openings along the
tape lines for the yellow paint to bleed under.
both tape lines are on the ship press their edges down
as tight to the hull as possible to remove any gaps. When
satisfied that the tape lines were secure brush yellow
paint on the area between the two tape lines. Once you
have gone around the perimeter and have a uniform degree
of yellow pigment applied wait for the paint to dry.
the paint dry remove both tape lines and the result should
be a nice sharp cut yellow line separating the black from
the white areas of the ship. If the yellow bleeds onto
the white or black use touch up paint to rectify the problem.
you are worried that the bottle paint doesn't match the
spray paint with 100% accuracy then spray a blast of spray
paint onto a piece of newspaper and use that as your touch
opted to paint ours.
5 Painting The Red.
waterline is a little different than that marked on
the hull. As Scott Andrews explains...
the antifouling paint wasn't applied in a straight line.
Amidships, on the flat portion of the hull's flanks,
the antifouling paint was applied up to the level of
the maximum load waterline, 34'-7". This roughly bisects
the condenser exhaust openings. Beginning at the portion
of the hull at both the bow and stern where the things
begin to turn inward, the line between the black and
the red antifouling paint rose from 34'-7" to the 40-foot
mark at the bow and to the 37-foot mark at the stern.
This allowed for both any difference in trim (bow or
stern sitting lower in the water) so that only antifouling
paint was submerged. This common practice and is evident
in photos of Olympic and Titanic and in photos of many
other liners as well."
scale this would mean that the waterline would rise
to 34.84mm above the keel at the bow, 30.1mm amidships
and 32.2mm at the stern.
subject is also covered in the signs section.
with all the lines on the hull you want this to be a
crisp clean cut edge. As before run the masking tape
around the black area of the ship so that the lower
edge of the masking tape is where the will red begin.
If you look closely at the model there is a very faint
line on the hull to indicate where the red ends and
the black begins. Run the tape along this line.
install the rudder onto the ship to make sure the red
paint lines up on the rudder as well.
before place newspaper strips on the black and white
areas to protect from any overspray. Then (in our well
ventilated area outdoors) turn the ship upside down
onto our taped newspapers on the table so it sat on
its gunwales. Apply the red paint. For a good coverage
we found we had to apply two coats. When finished set
it aside INDOORS to keep it from dust and then allowed
it to dry for at least 48 hours. We worked on subassemblies
in the meantime.
the paint was dry remove the newspapers and tape from
the upper half of the model to reveal your sharp, nicely
cut, red edge and keel area of the hull. It would have
done Thomas Andrews proud. Testors was happy anyway.